KevinGwin wrote:
Iamichabod, the 5 amp DC fuse and 8amp AC fuse on the fridge control board looked fine
The more expensive heating element probably sacrificed itself to save the fuse. :)
You can test the element for continuity with an ohm meter or just connect it directly to 120V and see if the fridge cools. If it does, the fuse and/or relay (or a wire connection) is bad. Replacing the relay is easy enough or at least it was on my Norcold (
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29727778/gotomsg/29741786.cfm#29741786).
It’s possible the over voltage fried the 120V detector circuit if it won’t run on “auto”. If the fridge can be forced to AC mode does it still not work?