Electrical issue

Ok, some logic
I do not know why the control panel went dark.. The lights there should be 12 volt

You had 12 volt power independent of the 120 volt (When unplugged) this eliminates the main battery fuse or breaker, Disconnect switch and in fact most of the 12 volt system.. IT DOES NOT eliminate the fuse for the thermostat or the fuse for the display panel/control panel

The converter may or may not be good.. Only way to test it is with a volt-meter which you did not have

Sounds like a 120 volt side issue.. Possible issues include

Tripped or failed circuit breaker All breakers are suspect
Screw loose.. Many Rvers have a few screws loose.. Story explains below
Bad wire (have seen that once) or broken wire (have read and seen both)

The story
When my RV was new sometimes the A/C's would work, sometimes one, or the other would not.. Was saving money on hair cuts trying to figure it out (Pulling hair out) when I thought to check the main power distribution panel.....

Well I notice a wire MOVE in the clamp.. That's strange I thouht. So I got out the old #2 Square bit screwdriver and (First unplugging from shore) Tightened everything in sight... One screw took over 2.5 turns before I even felt resistance and another full turn or so to tight.

Yup, that was it.

Just A Note...

I have seen ATC/ATO fuses with integral LED failure indicator light.

Secondly. I have also seen direct plug-in meters that replace fuses that digitally measure amperage and voltage for diagnostic troubleshooting.

Every Klixxon marine breaker in Quicksilver has a 5mm red or green LED buffered dim with resistor, that will glow when a breaker faults. Same for shore power inlet. Red LEDs for battery, Green for AC.

Thanks everyone for their help. as it turned out, this was not a voltage issue entirely. I finally got an opportunity this weekend to get my multi-meter and properly check my circuits. Batter was good at 13.29 volts with coach unplugged and 13.56 volts when plugged in.
I went to the distribution panel and when to check the circuits and the last 12v fuse checked was actually marked for the slideout, I pulled the fuse (not blown) and replaced with yet another 30amp fuse, the air conditioner came on immediately and the other issue resolved. When I took my hands of the fuse, everything went back off. So, over time the female spade had slightly separated not allowing the fuse to make 100% contact. I tightened the terminals with my needle nose pliers and viola! All is right in the camper again.

Low DC voltage. While the lights will light on low voltage, the fridge, A/C, water heater, pump, will not work on low voltage. Check your battery voltage, otherwise you are just guessing.

bob213 wrote:
Did you check the Buss fuses on the control board(black box) usually behind the refrigerator?

:H

For A/C--furnace thermostat and water heater/water pump control panel DC power ???


OP.....
Open up Thermostat and see if it has a FUSE

Remove WH/WP Control Panel and check for FUSE ....test for DC Power



IF ALL fuses test good on the DC Dist Panel then it has to be something localized to the items that have lost DC

Did you check the Buss fuses on the control board(black box) usually behind the refrigerator?



Whoa!!! OldBiscuit!! Total brain fart here! You would think I was still drinking with that answer....Duh.........

Moved from Forum Technical Support

smsage999 wrote:


All fuses were checked and not blown. Heck I even replaced all DC fuses with new ones as sometimes fuses go bad without indicating failure. This one is really stumping me because it was not isolated to a single power source.

I saw your post sir. Again all fuses were changed because I had the same thought about losing 12v power somewhere, every fuse was changed out to new ones without rectifying the problem. Maybe there is something within the panel that I cannot see. I will be back home tonight with my multimeter and can check circuits more closely with diagnostic tools.

Well it IS isolated to ONE power source------12V DC

A/C--furnace....no 12V DC (thermostat dead) then NO A/C or furnace will work
Water pump/water heater...once again 12V DC

You have lost a 12V DC circuit...possibly two.
Need to ID DC FUSE circuits and find the one that feeds furnace and water control panel.

See my previous post!

I never lost 120v power, or 12 volt power. I still had TV, fan,stereo/dvd combo, all 120 volt appliances. When 120 was disconnected, all 12 volt lighting still worked. The only two things that are not working when running on 120 volt or 12 volt is the air conditioner/furnace(120 volt), an the water pump/water heater switch (12 volt).

All fuses were checked and not blown. Heck I even replaced all DC fuses with new ones as sometimes fuses go bad without indicating failure. This one is really stumping me because it was not isolated to a single power source.