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Camperluver43's avatar
Jul 23, 2013

Electrical Issues - 1994 Wilderness 5th Wheel

Good afternoon everyone, first post but I have been reading this forum for a few years to help me along with my first camper purchase.

We have a 1994 Wilderness 5th wheel that we bought fairly cheap due to a few issues:
1. Refrigerator was unhooked because it was "$800 to fix so we had it unhooked"
2. Small Roof leak - I have since patched and repainted with rubber epdm paint.
3. Awning was damaged.

Anyways, we used it twice last summer and it worked well. AC Worked, Stove worked, Microwave/water/ lights all worked. The refrigerator turns on (lights up) but goes to "Check" after looking for gas/electric. Also, I noticed that the rearmost outlets on the wall did not work.

Fast forward to this summer. I removed the panel behind the fridge and found a melted plug outlet that I assume used to be mounted back there. The PO tied the wiring together (looks like household electrical wiring) but there is one more connection leading towards the back of the camper that is just hanging there that I assume leads to the rear outlets.

First time out this season was same as last, everything was fine. This second time was this past weekend. I ran the AC at my house, checked the lights, etc. everything worked. We got to the campsite and I turned on the AC after plugging in (30A service). AC was on for about 30 minutes and I ran in to use the bathroom. I go to turn on the light in the bathroom and the AC stops along with a breaker tripping sound.

I pull the breaker panel back and see 5 breakers- Main, AC, General Power, Microwave, HW Heater. The General Power breaker is tripped. I try to reset and it trips immediately. I try to turn the AC back on and it won't work.

After about another 20 minutes of just leaving everything alone, I try the AC again and get it to work on Low only. Fan will work on hi/low, but AC will only blow cold on Low. The General Power breaker still wouldn't reset- immediately tripping with a small spark each time. All lights and outlets in the camper don't work.

I pull the covers off the lights in the main entrance area and find both bulbs are black and blown. All other lights seem to be ok. We wake up Saturday morning (everything happened Friday evening) and now the AC will not cool anymore but the fan runs. Since then I can't get the AC back on and when I got home I attempted the breaker again and it tripped - it also tripped the outlet at my garage along with the garage breaker as well.

I'm fairly well versed at repairing stuff like this but mostly from doing it on cars and some household wiring. If anyone needs additional info/pictures I can grab them tonight and upload in the morning when I return to work (Can only access internet from my phone from home)

Thank you all in advance!

17 Replies

  • I wouldn't be surprised if the battery had some bad cells in it, and it does seem as though it was pulling a lot of current to make it trip the way it did. I need to figure out where the converter/inverter is on the camper. Thank you all for the tips.

    I did check all of the wiring at the breaker box (not the breakers themselves) but the screw in boards and everything was nice and tight. I will pull the breakers tonight and see, along with checking for the inverter, removing the battery, etc.

    I will also snap some pictures of the panel, the wiring behind the refrigerator, etc.

    thanks again!
  • Make a list:

    1. Gypsy Woman

    2. Dead Chicken

    3. Handful of salt

    4. Horseshoe

    Start at the beginning, the service entrance and work your way to the breakers, checking all load values with a meter. Check converter voltages. Then from there to the DC loads with a test light.
  • Before running the rig on converter with no battery check to see if it is a 6300 or that type (likely in an older rig)

    Somebody else can get this right, but if you have a 6300 converter, it has the DC fuse panel split into filtered and unfiltered sections with the lights not filtered and the tank monitor filtered.

    The 6300 needs the battery as a filter or the dirty 12v will harm the tank monitor etc, but the lights work ok on dirty 12v. Of course with no shore power you are on battery only, which has clean 12v.
  • Camperluver43 wrote:
    As for the battery- I have one in the camper but its pretty much dead. It won't power the lights on by itsel anymore, should I replace this and see what happens?

    Ironically, the only things that did work on the camper (besides the fan) was the tank level monitor lights.


    If that dead battery has shorted cells, it will act as an extra large resistor, and, draw more 12 volt power (trying to recharge) than what your converter can put out. Thus, even when plugged into shore power, there is no 12 volt power to lights, thermostat, refrigerator control board, etc.

    Disconnect the battery. Then, plug into shore power and see what systems work off the converter output.
  • Thank you for the response's and sorry for the delay. I kept trying to post from home but my phone wouldn't work, then I was out sick yesterday from work.

    Anyways - I will climb up there today as I'm feeling better and see what the AC looks like, along with pulling the breaker's to make sure there is a good connection.

    As for the battery- I have one in the camper but its pretty much dead. It won't power the lights on by itsel anymore, should I replace this and see what happens?

    Ironically, the only things that did work on the camper (besides the fan) was the tank level monitor lights.
  • You were on shore power so the converter would make the 12v and use the battery as a filter to have "clean" 12v to run some things like fridge controls and the battery and tank monitor idiot lights gizmo.

    You have some 120v problems to solve as above, but in addition you said you had no lights at one point. You should have had 12v lights running from battery even with no 120v to power the converter.

    Since 12v is also required for the fridge/furnace/AC controls, there may be a 12v factor amongst the other issues. One thing at a time. Make sure you can run everything on just 12v battery and propane. Second part is fix the 120v issues.

    Get the 12v all running right first so there is no mix-up in trouble shooting the fridge etc as to whether it is 12v or 120v causing the trouble.
  • I would:
    1. Go up on the roof, pull the shroud off the AC and look for a damaged/failed hard-start capacitor.
    2. Check the connections in the breaker panel for looseness. You'll have to pull the cover off them but it's super common to have looseness at the breaker screw that holds the wire.
    3. Check the temperature of the breakers and the pedestal plug while the AC is running. If hot then you need to replace the plug or tighten connections (or both).
    4. It's common for the 12V bulbs to turn black with age and eventually burn out. They run very hot for what they are. I use a small common table lamp to light our TT. It throws a nice light and puts no load on the converter.

    You need to take apart the PO's wiring and replace the outlet and make sure all is done correctly.

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