Electrical Issues

Here is a typical 30AMP electric distribution chart that might help...

I'd go for loose terminal connection on your battery terminal...



My 2008 OFF-ROAD POPUP came with the simple ELIXIR converter/power distribution unit that only had one 120VAC circuit breaker and four 12VDC fuses. All of the circuits feeding this box was divided up into many groups using those large YELLOW twist on wire nuts. What a night mare those were. I eventually changed all of that out for a more modern WFCO 8900 series Power distribution center panel. Now I have up to nine 120VAC circuit breakers (One full size and eight half size) and eleven 12VDC fused positions. Much better layout...


After fighting with the new WF8945 converter/charger unit I changed that out for a PD9260C converter/charger unit. Having good luck the past five years running this setup.

Roy Ken

If fridge is set on auto, and you are plugged into shore power, it is running on 120 VAC, and completely seperate from your lighting system.

No not really. Virtually all RV refers use 12V for the control board. But the refer 12V is likely from a different 12V fuse. Heat from the cooling comes from either 120V or propane but the refer will not run on either without 12V.

The OP stated that the lights go out and they are 12V. Good advice above on isolating the 12V problem.

OP When it goes out again check the voltage at the refer 12V. Be sure to use a good frame ground for all checks (do not use any cable/wire grounds) since the problem could be a ground problem to the refer.

Your fuse / breaker box is actually two electrical systems. 12 volt DC system uses the fuse panel and 120 volt AC uses the circuit breakers. The 120 VAC passes through the breakers to power up the converter, AC outlets, and air conditioner. Your fridge is connected to both. It is plugged into an outlet (hidden outside) and wired into 12 VDC system for gas operation. If fridge is set on auto, and you are plugged into shore power, it is running on 120 VAC, and completely seperate from your lighting system.

The lights are 12 volt only. They get power from your battery, or, if plugged into shore power, directly from converter.

The listed symptoms don't make sense, unless there are problems with both 120 VAC and 12 VDC systems.

The lights, and the fridge, are controlled by 12 volts. Your A/C and perhaps your TV as well may be on 120 volts.

Your water pump is also 12 volts. It is also a heavy load. It sounds to me like you have a loose connection, perhaps either the positive or negative connection to your 12 volt panel box.

You could try a little experiment, shut off the water pump and the fridge, then go through the unit and turn on every light. If nothing happens, let the water out of tap so there is no pressure in the water line, shut off the tap, and then turn on the water pump and let it build up pressure. Again, if nothing happens, shut off the water pump, drain off the pressure, and start the water pump and the fridge at the same time.

And do this without being connected to shore power first, then try the same while connected to shore power and see if there is any difference.

That might give you clues perhaps. It will most likely be one of those heavy duty 12 volt connections is loose. Good Luck.

The fridge and lights work off the battery (12VDC). The outlets work off campground voltage (120VAC).
With that in mind try finding the fuse that controls the lights/refer and be sure the wires to it are tight. You might try installing another fuse of the same rating. When the lights go out test the voltage at both sides of the fuse. If there is voltage on both sides the fuse is good.
Also, our TT had a secret 12V circuit breaker located under the chassis. When it tripped one had to reset it by hand. We replaced it with one that will reset itself after tripping. Could your rig have the same thing? The symptoms point to something like that.

Oh yeh. Last trip out lights were going off and some on by themselves. The trouble lies in the size of wirenuts they used in my rig. Too many wires jammed into too small a wirenut. The vibration caused some or one? to fall out. I think I've just about redone every connection and then I find another. Remove the fixture and fish around in the ceiling for the connections. skin out the wires so they fit better in the conector and when you are done wrap some GOOD tape over the whole thing. RVIA what a JOKE. They are suppost to set standards. Cheaper the better is their motto I guess.