Electrical

Rickster2 wrote:
I’m having trouble with the refrigerator compressor in the camper shutting down periodically with one A/C unit running and am being told the “energy management system” is shutting it down because a 30 amp service is not enough. If I attach the camper to a single 30 amp breaker, will this help the situation. I find it hard to believe a 30 amp service will not sufficiently operate one A/C unit and the refrigerator but am not an electrician so asking for advice. Thank you in advance

You need to understand how the Energy Manager (I assume it's an Intelletec) works... It is not voltage that shuts things down it is current. Now.. here is how it works on a 50 amp RV.
If you are plugged into True 50 amps service (two legs L-1 and L-2 120 volt either leg to neutral and 240 volt leg to leg) the EMS sees the 200+ leg to leg (not sure what the cut off is) and says "Oh 50 amp service.. Snooze time) (It shuts down and does nothing. lets power pass to everything)

But if it sees zero volts leg to leg (or very little) Then it thinks "30 amps I need to keep an eye on the amperage" and yes.... the A/C draws around 13-15 running and that don't leave much for other stuff.

Will switching to a dual breaker system fix it?
IF. the two breakers on on different legs yes. then the EMS will think it's hooked to 50 amps and "Go to sleep"

NOTE you have an indicator "Amps" (it only works on 30 amp sites) keep an eye on it and you may find another load that's drawing
(IT too shuts off when on 50 amps for its monitoring the neutral line and amps on that line means very little on 50 amps)

A 50 amp outlet does not have to be a twin 50 amp breaker....I used a twin 30 amp breaker for my 50 amp RV for years without any problem.

Housted

Okay, I may be the only one to say this, but since you have a 50 amp fiver, upgrade/install the outlet to 50 amp. Problem solved.

Sounds like you have a multi-wire branch circuit with one leg to RV and one to outbuilding. This is not good.
If some of the outbuilding is on RV leg it could be overloaded.
Installing a30 amp dedicated to the RV receptacle is best solution. Make sure the 30-amp TT receptacle is wired 120 volts and not 240!

How low does the voltage go when the air conditioner and fridge are both drawing their maximum power?

How many btu's are the air conditioners?

Does the fridge restart if the air conditioner cycles off?

uh, 2 residential fridges, AC and depending on run length EMS could easily trip out due to low voltage.

By chance how long ago was the wiring done? Back in the 60's they allowed 120V wring to use a two leg system (240V with 120V on each leg, basically how 50A TT system is now) and common neutral. Hence the two leg breaker. That isn't allowed by code anymore in houses. Advantage of this older system was if the load was balanced there is no current flowing in the neutral and less voltage drop. Completely unbalance neutral current is same as hot lead current.

Does it shut down during the startup cycle of the refer? Are you using an extension cord?

Sounds like something is not right. We have our MH on a 30 amp service here at home. The MH is 50 amp with a residential refrigerator. It stays plugged in all the time we are at home and during the winter, the water heater, tank heat pads and heat pumps, set at lowest settings, stay on. I am no expert on ampere draw on any of these things draw, but we have not had any failures that I know of. That said, I believe the heat pads only come on when the temps get below freezing.

What are you referring to as a double 30 amp breaker ? Is the 30 amp circuit wired correctly? Is it a 240v circuilt and not a 110v circuit.
Sounds odd.

I am no expert and never had a 50 amp RV, that being said, I can't imagine why it's not working. If you have an amp clamp or a friend with one, see how much current is being pulled through that 30 amp plug. It might be your pulling more than 30 amps, or the service is not up to spec.