emergency start has been hardwired?
I recently purchased my camper. It is a 1990 E350 Catalina. I have been having serious issues getting her started after sitting for even a day. If I drive for more than about 2 hours she starts to die...
Forum Discussion
The original system probably looked something like this:
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/68/31/bf/6831bf44726ed0bfc17054540d57f9d0--rv-battery-bus-conversion.jpg
The solenoid might be a little different given the presence of an emergency boost switch.
There isn't enough information to understand how the solar is connected to the system. The following assumes it is 12 Vcd.
Problem 1- Dying after running a couple hours.
If the battery is dead when the engine stops, this indicates an alternator issue. Start the engine and turn off the solar but leave the batteries connected. Measure the voltage across each battery. At least one of the batteries should show more than 14 Vdc. If none are showing more than 14 Vdc, take the alternator to the local parts store for testing. Repeat the alternator test with the new alternator - see problem 3.
Problem 2 - Battery drain from solenoid.
WRA - gave a good description of repair and location but if it isn't where suggested, you can try turning off the solar, turn off the engine, and disconnect the negative cable from all of the batteries. Then in turn, touch the negative cable to its respective battery and listen and follow the clunk sound to the solenoid relay.
The solenoid will look something like this but a google search on RV isolation relay will show the many variations:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDM3NQ==/z/GJwAAMXQrhdTViKp/$_3.JPG?set_id=2
Problem 3 - Wacka-doodle wiring.
The only scenario I could imagine for the engine to start when one battery is connected but not the other is that the Starter Battery is no longer part of the system. Hence the alternator test is problem 1 to understand if the starter battery even contributes. This could be caused by an internally broke cable or a bad ground connection to the chassis.
Looking forward to the answer, this was a fun problem.
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/68/31/bf/6831bf44726ed0bfc17054540d57f9d0--rv-battery-bus-conversion.jpg
The solenoid might be a little different given the presence of an emergency boost switch.
There isn't enough information to understand how the solar is connected to the system. The following assumes it is 12 Vcd.
Problem 1- Dying after running a couple hours.
If the battery is dead when the engine stops, this indicates an alternator issue. Start the engine and turn off the solar but leave the batteries connected. Measure the voltage across each battery. At least one of the batteries should show more than 14 Vdc. If none are showing more than 14 Vdc, take the alternator to the local parts store for testing. Repeat the alternator test with the new alternator - see problem 3.
Problem 2 - Battery drain from solenoid.
WRA - gave a good description of repair and location but if it isn't where suggested, you can try turning off the solar, turn off the engine, and disconnect the negative cable from all of the batteries. Then in turn, touch the negative cable to its respective battery and listen and follow the clunk sound to the solenoid relay.
The solenoid will look something like this but a google search on RV isolation relay will show the many variations:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDM3NQ==/z/GJwAAMXQrhdTViKp/$_3.JPG?set_id=2
Problem 3 - Wacka-doodle wiring.
The only scenario I could imagine for the engine to start when one battery is connected but not the other is that the Starter Battery is no longer part of the system. Hence the alternator test is problem 1 to understand if the starter battery even contributes. This could be caused by an internally broke cable or a bad ground connection to the chassis.
Looking forward to the answer, this was a fun problem.
