Forum Discussion
BruceMc
Jul 22, 2014Explorer III
On our FW, the switch itself was defective. I replaced it with a large round momentary push button rated at 20 amps. The coil draw on the solenoid is much less... but I wanted something that would last.
You can test the switch & solenoid by removing the switch plate and shorting/jumpering the two poles together. You should hear a clack under the hood. Mine is mounted on the firewall next to the brake booster.
If you get the clack when shorting the poles, the switch is bad. If no clack, something else is amiss. Perhaps the solenoid coil power or switch side lead is broken or not connected at the house battery. You might check, too, to see if the coil power comes from the chassis battery instead of the house battery...
You can test the switch & solenoid by removing the switch plate and shorting/jumpering the two poles together. You should hear a clack under the hood. Mine is mounted on the firewall next to the brake booster.
If you get the clack when shorting the poles, the switch is bad. If no clack, something else is amiss. Perhaps the solenoid coil power or switch side lead is broken or not connected at the house battery. You might check, too, to see if the coil power comes from the chassis battery instead of the house battery...
About Technical Issues
Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,329 PostsLatest Activity: Oct 27, 2025