landyacht318 wrote:
GTE,
Both of these ammeters read within 3 amps of each other upto that 100 amps and my clamp on ammeter also is within that range.
There IS an "error" or discrepancy" when readings between two instruments are 3A DIFFERENT. You cannot make accurate "scientific" statements when you have this amount of error, period. The company I work for sends all measuring instruments out to a firm that CALIBRATES them to a known standard. IF the device does not calibrate to that known standard IT MUST BE REPLACED WITH NEW INSTRUMENT.
I too was surprised when the chock full healthy AGM battery's amps tapered back to 0.0 amps in 45 seconds or less. The ammeter starts up in the 70's, and within a 3 seconds in in the 40's and tapers quickly from there when I have set the voltage at 14.7v.
I am not supprised, you already have stated that you have an difference of 3 amps between two Ammeters. Why are you not supprised?
I was so in belief at this actual data, that I kept the battery full overnight on my Meanwell, and took video The next day, showing the battery accepting 0.0 amps at 14.7v, then stating the engine, and witching back and forth between dashboard and battery monitor in the rear.
The fact remains, and I could prove it, that the amps into the battery after startung the engine, tapered back to 0.0x in less than 45 seconds.
You cannot "prove" anything when you are using FAULTY INSTRUMENTS to measure with, therefor your "discovery" is faulty..
So instead of calling BS on actual data perhaps you should go collect data of your own, rather than relying on theory, as this is one of those times where perceived what should happen, is not happening in actual life. Makes me question most everything I read concerning the opinions by self described experts.
My "theory" IS sound, it is your "proof" which is skewed by measuring instruments which do not agree.
Because of the difference in measurements it is highly likely you never could see that current being returned to the battery.
And as far as the voltage control of Newer vehicles, My elderly parents have 2014 or newer GM vehicles, and when I do drive them, I have the dashboard set to display the voltage. Crusiing ad accellerating the voltage is in the 12.7 to 12.8 range, take my foot off the gas and this shoots up into the 14's.
Again, actual observations.
Using vehicle "dashboard gauges" to measure voltages is also futile, these are DUMMY gauges, GM has been well known for inaccurate gauges along with many other manufacturers.. They are there simply as a REFERENCE to let you know if there is a major malfunction.
I remember some 1970s GM fuel gauges which would drop to empty when going up hill then rapidly jumping to a full tank going down hill..
Only one of those GM vehicles has the stop start, and the first few times drivving it, the stalling when stopped alarmed me, and I was asking my dad how do I turn of this freaking stupid asinine feature, but as quick as I could move my foot from brake to gas pedal the engine was already started and ready to accellerate.
GM is not the only manufacturer offering this silly ICE stop/start "feature", in fact it is available on a lot of vehicles which have a "GREEN ECO" button.
On some newer vehicles this "feature" IS AUTOMATICALLY enabled EVERY TIME YOU START THE VEHICLE. On these vehicles this "feature" is DIFFICULT TO DISABLE and these vehicles DO COME WITH AN EXTRA HEAVY DUTY EXPENSIVE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR.
I HAVE coworkers which HAVE these systems and they HAVE had ISSUES with the batteries not lasting long.. They certainly don't have a reason to lie to me, I never asked them, just conversation across the lunch table..
BS meter is pegged and I am a bit disappointed in the direction you are heading.. I used to think you were one that was aware of things a bit better..
