mike-s wrote:
lawrosa wrote:
I dont use the load terminals. Why not run all off the battery?
Because load terminals provide Low Voltage Disconnect. They'll disconnect the load before the battery is drained to the point of damage. Using the load terminals also lets you know how much is going to both the battery and the load. Without, you only know the total - it may say 10 A going to the battery, but there may be 11 A of load being taken off the battery, so the battery is actually discharging.
Thats silly IMO... The controller although can run 40 amps I wouldnt do it.. All that to just tell the difference with whats going in and going out is pointless in this application..
Get one of those amp monitors would be best for that to tell the % SOC..
But the MT50 remote has an audible alarm anyway ( ill have to test that feature) Set it at 12 volts say. If it goes off well, start the generator.
Id rather have an voltage alarm then a disconnect...Heck if it was emergency in winter and my batts were low and I needed heat. Id turn the disconnect off anyway and run the batts down to 10 volts if I needed to..
and with 8 people in my camper, 2 of them young grand kids, i've run the batts down to at least 11.5. Well that's when my inverter alarm goes off anyway..
We woke up to that alarm two mornings in a row. lol.
but then again I had 1 panel and a 20 amp controller only before. Couple that with the wfco I had and whammy!!!! not enough power to charge up the high electrical use family. Two tv,s Toaster oven, coffee maker, water pump baths and showers.... Uggggg.
Now 2- 280 watts panels, 40 amp controller, and a PD 14.4v wizard... Yay!!!!
Next on list are 6 volters... 3 -12s were not cutting it.. But Ill see this years if I can keep em charged...