Expanding AC distribution panel

myredracer wrote:
What are you working on and trying to accomplish?

I lived in a RV full time for more than 25 years. The one I'm currently in is designed for travling, iirc it's a weekender. not really designed for full timing.

A better RV I lived in was made back in the 1950s, which was repaired and upgraded.

I have looked around at used RV's but haven't really found anything I would want for full timing. Most RV's are pretty much made the same with some differences.

A person who has sold RV's for 40+ years told me RVs most all are made cheaply using cheap parts unless you spend a little money such as e.g. 500k to over a million dollars.

If I were back on my own property I would probably build a cabin or house. However over the years since sold my property I've spent most of my savings on RVs and RV parks, which aren't cheap in comparsion owning your own property, even if your paying a parks monthly rate. Though a RV parks montly rate is likely to save you some money when compared to paying rent for an aparment or house.

Another possibility would be an older park model that could remodeled and replace all the appliances, plumbing, etc. Modern RV's are designed primarily for traveling and not full timing. I know quite a few full timers, most have fairly nice 5th wheels, which are ok but still primarily designed for traveling around.

For travling I'm fixing up an older B-class camper van.

Do you want more power or are you talking yourself out of it?

How many breakers do you have? How many do you need?

Chris Bryant wrote:
Really the only practical way to upgrade is go to 50 amp service, and make the 6300 a sub panel.

One problem with 50 amp RVs is they often trip breaker panels in RV Parks with no 50 amp service. Normally 50 amp RVs will have an adapter for 30 amp service and the park may have warning signs not to run high wattage equipment such as air conditioning, etc.

50 amp RV would be great if you have a 50 amp service or are careful connecting to 30 amp service.

What are you working on and trying to accomplish?

Andonso wrote:
I'm uncertain of NEC codes for an RV which are probably required for RV manufacturing similar to automobile manufacturing requires to pass certain DOT regulations.

Article 551 of the NEC specifies in great detail the electrical requirements for RVs and also for RV parks in the US. There is nothing in the CEC or in any standards that apply to RVs built in Canada (are any now?) or for CGs here. The NEC has many cross-references to related standards/regulations like UL & NFPA and these are often recognized in Canada and if not, we have numerous CSA standards that apply. There is another entire article (section) in the NEC covering just mobile homes.

The issue I have is that in building construction there is oversight by electrical inspectors & engineers, but nothing when in comes to RVs. RV manufacturers can crank out RV after RV with electrical issues and there is nobody to ensure it's done correctly or safely and no authority having jurisdiction that you can file a complaint with. You can hire a master electrician or a monkey to do work on the RV you own and there's no need for a permit or inspection. If it burns down or you electrocute someone, that could be a different matter tho. Can't you just swap out breakers for a tandem type to get more circuits?

I made my own demand controller for the permanent electric heating I installed using a current sensing relay (adjustable type) installed in a separate elec. box.

CAPTCHA has got me today and give up trying to add more... :M

road-runner wrote:

dedicated appliances, fridge, microwave, AC HWH etc. are required to have their own seperate breaker.

My 30 amp rig came from the factory with the microwave and water heater on the same breaker, and the refrigerator is on the same circuit as the power converter and 4 outlets.

I assume you have a load shed device to drop the water heater.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Automatic-Load-Shed

This could also work for the OP depending on conditions.

The 75 amp converter will pull approx. 1690VA from 120 input when doing 75 amps/14.x output. (that converter has PF of 0.73) So sharing a circuit with the fridge on electric is dubious. It would work if the converter were only doing regular 13.6v work at low amps output.

If you ever go off-grid on whole house inverter, you want to shut off the converter and have the fridge on gas, so that would be easy if they shared. OTOH if the converter has its own breaker it is easy and you can just unplug the fridge 120 outside if it won't stay on gas by itself instead of auto to 120.

With the 7300 converter sharing with receptacles and you want the receptacles to stay live, you can insert a switch on the converter's black wire on its way to the breaker before where it joins the receptacles' black wire at the breaker.

The MW/WH one or the other switch (like in our 5er) trick can be used with anything that shares. Just means "power management" by the "operator". Lots of that when RVing anyway when using high draw appliances (shut off fridge 120 for a couple minutes while making toast eg) if on limited shore power. The more you do that, the fewer extra breakers needed.

road-runner wrote:

dedicated appliances, fridge, microwave, AC HWH etc. are required to have their own seperate breaker.

My 30 amp rig came from the factory with the microwave and water heater on the same breaker, and the refrigerator is on the same circuit as the power converter and 4 outlets.

Unless you have not found it, MOST quality built RV's can have the Water Heater and the Microwave on the one breaker. BUT! That means the OEM has installed a Switch(either manual or automatic) that allows just 1 of those 2 to run. You cannot run both. IF you can, then they made a mistake on build. Doug

PS, just because an RV HAS IT DONE, does not make it correct or safe. THAT is why they have TSB's and Recalls.

Really the only practical way to upgrade is go to 50 amp service, and make the 6300 a sub panel.

95% of NEC code is based on common sense. Where folks go wrong is designing for worst case scenario loading. Then there is the safety factor like avoiding unintentional bootstrap grounding. Problems occur in RV's because unlike a house they are constantly plugged in and unplugged.

dedicated appliances, fridge, microwave, AC HWH etc. are required to have their own seperate breaker.

My 30 amp rig came from the factory with the microwave and water heater on the same breaker, and the refrigerator is on the same circuit as the power converter and 4 outlets.