Extension Cord

By the way, a typical RV refrigerator draws 5-8 amps when running on 120VAC. For rough calculations, your overhead lights running on 12VDC draw approximately 1.5 amps for each bulb. (18 watt/12VDC = 1.5 amps).

I would suggest a 12 ga.. But the more common 14 should be OK in open air.

Still.. I always recommend the heavier cord and Sears (And K-mart) both sell a very nice 12GA cord with a LOCKING outlet.. By this I mean there is a button on the outlet, you push the button before you plug into the cord or unplug,, I really like those cords and have 100' of it in my basement just now.

Also, if you have a 2nd Air conditioner... (or add one) I run my 2nd A/C using a shorter 12GA cord when I'm on a 30 amp site... Off the park's 20 amp outlet.

I would also be somewhat worried about AC voltage. If you are only using a 25' extension then most likely you will be OK at 12 ga. but if it's something you are going to do frequently see what AC voltage that gives you in the RV with whatever you are going to run on. I would not run anything with an AC motor for a long period of time if your voltage drops below 110V. Running an AC motor at low voltage can shorten it's life.

I found a couple of 50-foot contractor grade 10-3 extension cords are a yard sale gobbled them up in a heart beat.


I wouldn't use less than the #12. I also would only use a long RV30A-15A 30AMP adapter (WALMART) and stay away from the little black round plastic adapters. They will get hot on you pretty quick and burn up your connectors... Steer clear of those cheap RED ones from WALMART...




DO NOT USE THESE


I have one of those 120VAC Receptacle type AC VOLTMETERS plugged in inside the trailer. This has the SAFE ZONE identified in GREEN.


We run our air conditioner and other appliances all the time in my two trailers. Being only 15-20AMPS you have to watch what you have on and sometimes can't run two things at the same time otherwise you will trip the breaker.

The other thing to double check is make sure your garage receptacles is wired to all three terminals so you can use all three terminals. Your trailer ground only comes from the the garage connection so that is important to have. Some extension cords may have the ground connector cut off or only two wires types.

Hook it up and turn on a few things then check your connections for heat. This is what you don't want to happen to your 30AMP connector.



We hook up to our garage connection all the time here when not one the road...

Roy Ken

salem wrote:
Thanks westend. Probably 20-25 feet. But, I can shorten that if needed by just pulling outmore of the trailer cord, thus being able to use a shorter ext. cord. . How long would too long be?

You should always pull the entire length of the trailer cord out whenever you plug in.

RoyB wrote:
I found a couple of 50-foot contractor grade 10-3 extension cords are a yard sale gobbled them up in a heart beat.


I wouldn't use less than the #12. I also would only use a long RV30A-15A 30AMP adapter (WALMART) and stay away from the little black round plastic adapters. They will get hot on you pretty quick and burn up your connectors... Steer clear of those cheap RED ones from WALMART...




DO NOT USE THESE


I have one of those 120VAC Receptacle type AC VOLTMETERS plugged in inside the trailer. This has the SAFE ZONE identified in GREEN.


We run our air conditioner and other appliances all the time in my two trailers. Being only 15-20AMPS you have to watch what you have on and sometimes can't run two things at the same time otherwise you will trip the breaker.

The other thing to double check is make sure your garage receptacles is wired to all three terminals so you can use all three terminals. Your trailer ground only comes from the the garage connection so that is important to have. Some extension cords may have the ground connector cut off or only two wires types.

Hook it up and turn on a few things then check your connections for heat. This is what you don't want to happen to your 30AMP connector.



We hook up to our garage connection all the time here when not one the road...

Roy Ken

Roy, I'm curious about the 30/15 amp adapter. You say not to use the kind without the cord. What makes them different? I remember you posting somewhere they can overheat, but why do these overheat and the one with the cord doesn't? I'm sure they are all made in China under the same great QC guidance of all products made there that we've all know and come to love. We've used the the short ones for about 20 years and haven't had a problem. However, if I knew why they're a danger, I'd switch. Is there something that makes one better than the other?
Thanks!

"Roy, I'm curious about the 30/15 amp adapter. You say not to use the kind without the cord. What makes them different? I remember you posting somewhere they can overheat, but why do these overheat and the one with the cord doesn't? I'm sure they are all made in China under the same great QC guidance of all products made there that we've all know and come to love. We've used the the short ones for about 20 years and haven't had a problem. However, if I knew why they're a danger, I'd switch. Is there something that makes one better than the other?
Thanks! "

There isn't any problem using an adapter that has a UL rating for the amps you need for 120 and normally 15 amps. If you draw 15 amps ,yes they will get warm.

The poster with the lights at 1.5 amps, yes that is at 12 volts but you are converting 120 volts to 12. = .15 amps of 120v.

The poster using romex with ends on it, just go away, this is not a safe or legal thing to do.

To the poster, I always have a couple of 50' 12ga cords with me. You will then ALWAYS have enough to carry a load from a 20 amp breaker.

Just remember with electricity always look for the UL listing on the product, even at home with all the stuff from China. UL has been the bench mark in America for years.

Rethink this. Why not get a 30amp extension cord? Then you have full capability if you ever want to spot your trailer farther from the pedestal than the trailer cord will reach. My personal solution was to carry just one long 30amp extension cord to take care of all issues rather than storing and keeping up with various cords. One adapter is nice to have if you only have 15-20amp available to plug into.

Hi,

The mono block type work well at low amperage, but since there are two connections, both of which can heat, they tend to fail more easily.

We all say we are only going to use 15 amps--but--our RV's may not agree to "behave".

The dogbone type adapters give more "room" for the heat to dissipate. They can be overloaded, too, particularly if there is voltage drop.

jfkmk wrote:
Roy, I'm curious about the 30/15 amp adapter. You say not to use the kind without the cord. What makes them different? I remember you posting somewhere they can overheat, but why do these overheat and the one with the cord doesn't? I'm sure they are all made in China under the same great QC guidance of all products made there that we've all know and come to love. We've used the the short ones for about 20 years and haven't had a problem. However, if I knew why they're a danger, I'd switch. Is there something that makes one better than the other?
Thanks!

None of my outdoor use cords are less than 12ga. wire. I use 16ga in the house only for under 6ft. of length and very light loads. Just me.