I was sitting here surfing the internet when I heard the refrigerator making a slight sound. I glanced at the light disply and noticed the refrig had switched to LP gas. It is set for AUTO and should be running on electric but instead has it has decided to run on LP.The refrig is a Norcold Model 6182 and is 15 years old. This is the first time there has been a problem. Any ideas what might be the problem?

If it is set on auto, it apparently lost 110 to it. Check the breaker and the plug in the outlet behind it.

It should only do that if it detected a loss in 120v, ac, power. It could be a bad connection on the 120v circuit, or a short loss in shore-power not noticed by you.Did you turn it off and push the "auto" button again? There is always the possibility that one of you accidently bumped the button.At that age the control board may be going bad, or the heating element failed or a bad connection in it's circuit.

Thanks guys for such a rapid reply.I just noticed this problem and the sun is just coming up so I have not had the opportunity to run and tests just yet. I'll being going outside with the volt meter as soon as I finish my corn flakes & strawberries. LOLI replaced the circuit board in 2011 with a Dinosaur UIB S. The refrig is cooling just fine on LP right now. So in my mind the problem can be as simple as the AC eclectic has been disrupted. I think another problem might be the electric element may have gone bad and the board sensed the failure and switched to LP. Or perhaps the board has gone bad.Please keep the suggestions coming and I'll begin the troubleshooting soon and will keep everyone posted.Thanks again.

OK....I just went outside and removed the refrig cover. The next step was to removed the AC plug and using the volt meter verified AC voltage at the electrical outlet. Got a reading of 121 volts. Plugged AC in again and refrig once again decided to choose LP as the source even though the switch was set to AUTO. In the Auto mode the refrig should run on ELEC when AC is available.I unplugged & plugged in the AC again and this time the refrig selected ELEC. So I though.....hmmm......must have been some fluke. I do not like it when a problem goes away so easily for no reason.We had plans to go to Downtown Disney which we cancelled when we discovered this problem this morning.Then when the refrig seemed to be OK again we decided to once again go ahead with our plans for Disney.But....after the refrig ran on ELEC for about 5 minutes it switched to LP again. The heck with it....as long as it runs on LP I'm going to Disney and can work on the problem later today when we return. I'm think the problem is the electric heat element has gone bad. When I get back from Disney I'll remove the element and test the resistance. Any other advice or thoughts??

Bill/Diana wrote:The heck with it....as long as it runs on LP I'm going to Disney and can work on the problem later today when we return. Well my first thought is... Quoted above (Well adjusted for 3rd person instead of 1st person). Excellent ideaTwo possibilities or 3,Since you have confirmed 120vac to outlet, (Suggestion confirm under load, install a "Cube Tap" type device and measure one of the added outlets while the fridge draws power)If power lost in above test (you may need to look fast). you have a bad connection between Outlet and breaker... Check screws on breaker and bus bars in power distribution panel first.Next: IF power is good at outlet,, check connections on connections board, check all fuses (remove and reseat) and finally control board may be toast. Also any plugs, like Molex connectors,, Unplug and re-connect.IF control board, Check with Dinosaur boards for a replacement, very high quality and generally lower prices.

FINALLY FIXED Refrig switched to LP - *****Another update

35 Replies

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Mar 17, 2015
The gas-off-auto switch itself is usually the culprit- a good cleaning and tightening will normally correct the problem.
KJINTF
Explorer
Mar 17, 2015
"How would one determine specifically which electronic component(s) on the circuit board needs to be replaced? That is why it is much simpler to replace the board. JMHO"

Any competent electronics repair facility has the proper tools and knowledge to make the determination, it's not a difficult task

Same as folks tossing away inverters & converters. To repair a converter it typically takes less than 20 minutes and less than $2.00 in parts to get them running again better than new. Just finished repairing a Xantrex Prosine 2.0 Inverter/charger <$10.00 in parts and 1 hour labor a few FET's and caps and the unit is in great shape.

I just hate to see good equipment tossed in the trash.
Bill_Diana
Explorer
Mar 17, 2015
wa8yxm wrote:
One thing you may have noticed.....

Dinosaur boards are VERY WELL MADE...I mean VERY WELL MADE... far better than OEM.

Yes, the Dinosaur boards are rugged and durable. Plus they always offer helpful tech support.
Bill_Diana
Explorer
Mar 17, 2015
KJINTF wrote:
Why is it no one ever repairs the circuit boards?
Typically less than a few dollars in parts and 20 or 30 minutes and you are good to go.

How would one determine specifically which electronic component(s) on the circuit board needs to be replaced? That is why it is much simpler to replace the board. JMHO
KJINTF
Explorer
Mar 17, 2015
Why is it no one ever repairs the circuit boards?
Typically less than a few dollars in parts and 20 or 30 minutes and you are good to go.
tommykelly
Explorer
Mar 17, 2015
wa8yxm wrote:
One thing you may have noticed.....

Dinosaur boards are VERY WELL MADE...I mean VERY WELL MADE... far better than OEM.

took care of my problem10 years ago...

If I ever have problems I will directly to Dinosaur
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Mar 17, 2015
One thing you may have noticed.....

Dinosaur boards are VERY WELL MADE...I mean VERY WELL MADE... far better than OEM.
Bill_Diana
Explorer
Mar 16, 2015
Well....looks like the solution to the problem was replacement of the eyebrow circuit board located above the refrig. Since replacing the eyebrow circuit board the refrig has been running on ELEC and has not switched to LP on its own.

Thanks for all the support and assistance.
doxiemom11
Explorer II
Mar 15, 2015
Yes dirty connections can cause these type of problems. That is always what we check first when anything happens.
Bill_Diana
Explorer
Mar 15, 2015
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Is 100% of the harness connecting the two new boards new as well?

No...it is still the original flat grey cable 61571522 that runs from the eyebrow circuit board down the back of the regrig to the power supply circuit board.