Finally Found A 48-SMD 12-Volt Panel

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Something's up...

My 10-watt heatsinks are 90 mm in diameter with 25 fins. Driving the 10-watt chip -exactly- at 10-watts (9.88 vdc) with convection alone I am getting a Delta T temp of 34 degrees F using pure convection cooling. One such of my devices has been 24/7/365 since June 2013 so in reality the device cannot be being overdriven.

Those plates in that image have perhaps 10% of the thermal radiation area of my original equipment grade heatsinks that cost $22.00 in China. They are correct because they are drilled and threaded for the 10-watt commercial chip.

No question in my mind that aluminum plate would help IF IF IF IF sufficient area were allowed ABOVE the plate to permit convection. If that plate was mounted flat against an insulation it would prove to be pathetically ineffective.

Wonder what chip they are using i.e. total wattage rendered? Most flat plates afford 2.5 watts consumed, and my plate was measured last night at 3.1 watts which is really pushing thermal limits.

Bonding directly to aluminum is not going to make this device inexpensive.

Gotta watch for honorable slight-of-hand. A "new" 12-volt "50 watt" floodlight on eBay consists of (5) severely-under-driven 10-watt chips. Zank yu very much but I'll stick with a single chip, properly driven attached to a proper heat sink.

I tabbed a site that sells quarter-inch LEXAN polycarbonate which can be fashioned and cemented into an effective lens. Using a black anodized heat sink and sealing-in the chip results in bullet-proof durability. The wire pass through hole in the finned heat sink will be sealed with JB Weld.

You are repeating what the flashlight and nighttime headlamp wearing mountain biking crowd discovered 5-6 years ago. Under drive it and save heat, or drive it properly, 1000mah, and heat sink it properly. Most of the EE's I knew that tinkered with these LEDs, came to the conclusion that 700 to 1000 Milliamphours was the sweet spot for driving a 220 to 375 lumen out put single 3.7V LED chip.

My error, Chris.
I did not clarify the distinction between what your image shows and my 10-watt chip heatsinks. Your image displays a standard plate with an aluminum substrate substituted for the currently encountered plastic substrate.

I'm going to depart for eBay now and go torture the vendor of that "50 Watt 12-volt" floodlight.

Just to be clear- the panels I pictured are not the 10 watt and up models- they use a honeycomb base, much larger.
The ones pictured are likely just a couple of watts.

On edit- I wish I could find those with the honeycomb base, they looked pretty good, but most do seem under-heat sinked.

Something's up...

My 10-watt heatsinks are 90 mm in diameter with 25 fins. Driving the 10-watt chip -exactly- at 10-watts (9.88 vdc) with convection alone I am getting a Delta T temp of 34 degrees F using pure convection cooling. One such of my devices has been 24/7/365 since June 2013 so in reality the device cannot be being overdriven.

Those plates in that image have perhaps 10% of the thermal radiation area of my original equipment grade heatsinks that cost $22.00 in China. They are correct because they are drilled and threaded for the 10-watt commercial chip.

No question in my mind that aluminum plate would help IF IF IF IF sufficient area were allowed ABOVE the plate to permit convection. If that plate was mounted flat against an insulation it would prove to be pathetically ineffective.

Wonder what chip they are using i.e. total wattage rendered? Most flat plates afford 2.5 watts consumed, and my plate was measured last night at 3.1 watts which is really pushing thermal limits.

Bonding directly to aluminum is not going to make this device inexpensive.

Gotta watch for honorable slight-of-hand. A "new" 12-volt "50 watt" floodlight on eBay consists of (5) severely-under-driven 10-watt chips. Zank yu very much but I'll stick with a single chip, properly driven attached to a proper heat sink.

I tabbed a site that sells quarter-inch LEXAN polycarbonate which can be fashioned and cemented into an effective lens. Using a black anodized heat sink and sealing-in the chip results in bullet-proof durability. The wire pass through hole in the finned heat sink will be sealed with JB Weld.

I'm waiting for someone to try the COB panel lights, which should do a much better job of thermal management, with the chips being more directly mounted to the aluminum body.



Not real easy to find, but I've seen them over 10 watts for a small panel- a lot of light (and crazy cool color temps- over 7K)

And that, senor, is the problem. Professional applications and expensive LEDs (lights) use adequate heatsinking and a 5-watt light is a 5-watt draw on the battery. I paid twenty bucks for a PAR38 Floodlight thatc"has 18 2-watt chips". 36-watts, right? They advertise 30-watts but actual consumption is TWENTY POINT EIGHT WATTS. Light ouput is pathetic. It is underdriven because a proper heat sink is expensive. TWO of these lights output around the same a one of my 30-watt LEDs.
And so it goes with 12-volt plate LEDs. They promise the moon and deliver squat. The substrate cannot handle more heat dissipation. So for a buck seventy-five delivered I found the top o the heap light ouput. MPJA is selling CPU heat sinks with integral fan for four bucks. Between those + 10-watt chips and these cheapo plates I fulfilled my low wattage requirements.

Yotta see what a HUNDRED WATT LED needs for a heatsink when driven at rated milliamps. The Chinese are WILDLY underdriving their chips because of the cost of proper heatsinking then lying and claiming the lamp delivers rated wattage. The result is pathetic. They lie about lumen output.

So a bright plate at a good cost caught my attention. Ought-to-be's versus Is' s conflict LED lighting

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I checked and ye gods the lumens now read 240 on their website. Was 270.

Unless there is a substantial difference in watts/lumen between the 3528 and 5630 making the 5630 operate cooler I would hate to see any plate run warmer than what this one does. It gets ****ed warm, and it's a good size plate. Operating voltage test was 12.23

Regardless. I let my eyes and small font print tell me how much light there is. Chinese lumen measurements must not be an exact science and after spending a FORTUNE on hyper overpriced origin-USA CREE and Bridgelux lamps that were a joke for brightness, I think I'm going to stick with this one from BuyInCoins.

The heat is -the- issue and the -hype- is the trap. Only so many watts of chips can be mounted on a given area of substrate and after the limit is exceeded a pretty little mushroom cloud forms. And I am not going to pay a vendor ten dollars a chip premium because he distributes made in China LED plates from a USA post office box.

You'll make less heat with a bigger LED chip and underdriving it /dimming it by using some sort of PWM dimmer feeding it less milliamps. I don't think you'll find problems with the 5630's that are being used in boxlights and signs having cooling problems, usually they are pre built on a good aluminum heat sink that the substrate is mounted on.

I checked and ye gods the lumens now read 240 on their website. Was 270.

Unless there is a substantial difference in watts/lumen between the 3528 and 5630 making the 5630 operate cooler I would hate to see any plate run warmer than what this one does. It gets ****ed warm, and it's a good size plate. Operating voltage test was 12.23

Regardless. I let my eyes and small font print tell me how much light there is. Chinese lumen measurements must not be an exact science and after spending a FORTUNE on hyper overpriced origin-USA CREE and Bridgelux lamps that were a joke for brightness, I think I'm going to stick with this one from BuyInCoins.

The heat is -the- issue and the -hype- is the trap. Only so many watts of chips can be mounted on a given area of substrate and after the limit is exceeded a pretty little mushroom cloud forms. And I am not going to pay a vendor ten dollars a chip premium because he distributes made in China LED plates from a USA post office box.

pconroy328 wrote:
Ya gots to read what LED is on them. Odds are that it's a 3528. You can get more light, from less LEDs on a panel, for example if you pick a 5630 LED.

http://heracolights.com/2014/03/10/3528-vs-5050-vs-5630-led-smd-diodes/

I just ordered some 9 LED 5630 panels. I'll compare them with my 36 3528 panels.

led specs

A search on Alibaba.com for 5630 LED indicates all kinds of possibilities for light boxes and sign making industry.

About 4.5x as bright as a 1210 or 3528 LED

5630 LEDs for sign applications and backlighting.

Ya gots to read what LED is on them. Odds are that it's a 3528. You can get more light, from less LEDs on a panel, for example if you pick a 5630 LED.

http://heracolights.com/2014/03/10/3528-vs-5050-vs-5630-led-smd-diodes/

I just ordered some 9 LED 5630 panels. I'll compare them with my 36 3528 panels.