Forum Discussion
- JiminDenverExplorer IIConnecting it backwards.
- westendExplorer
JiminDenver wrote:
Measuring or connecting backwards?
On my controller it will blow the fuse. - JiminDenverExplorer IIOn my controller it will blow the fuse.
- westendExplorerMitch, you've got a meter, correct?
If you are in doubt about any wire in the 12V system being either (+) phase or (-) phase---With the battery wiring connected, put your (-) lead of your meter to a good grounding point (the (-) terminal of the battery is the best but any frame connected piece will do) and put your (+) lead on the wire you are working with. The meter will tell you if there is any voltage present and that will be the (+) phase. Connecting the meter lead to the (-) phase should show no voltage. - BFL13Explorer IINever know for sure till you try it. :) Do connect to battery before connecting to array so the controller can get itself sorted out first. VV when disconnecting, say to change batteries--disconnect array from controller first. I put a switch in the pos (could have been neg for this) wire between array and controller to make this easy.
- xzyHollyxyzExplorerOP HERE (again)...
This past winter in Mexico, I accidentally blew up an inverter by reversing the wires (oh, come on - it was early morning, before coffee...)
I read in our controller "manuals" that they have "battery reverse polarity protection". So, if I pull another boner like I did several months ago, I won't blow up the controller? - BFL13Explorer II
mitch5252 wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
Ok now that I have some internet, I see that it is indeed true that the OP's controller is made by the same company as my Solar30, China
Solar. No wonder the display looked familiar! :)
On the OP's last post with the controller info link, yes that is what we are trying to explain. The main thing is that the solar controller stops charging overnight, so it is not quite the same as a single stage converter for how it might "boil" your batteries. But as it says, you still have to pick your (lower) voltage for a long term Float like when not camping but in "storage."
It is not that onerous a chore, so do not despair at all the work involved :)
http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/user-manual/solar30.pdf
Your instructions were much more informative than what I got.
Looking at the readout of the controller, you have 6 screw holes - 2 panel, 2 battery, 2 load. In your instructions, it shows LOAD DISCHARGING CURRENT. Is that only for something connected in the last 2 holes (Load), or can it be applicable to the discharge of whatever is connected to the middle 2 holes (Battery)? (these questions are clear in my head...they may not translate well. Sorry!)
Yes as stated, just ignore the Load terminals and all the settings for them.
Pick a number you like for charging voltage (same number will be for Floating till dark) IMO pick 14.8 when camping off grid and drawing down the battery every day while solar tries to keep up, and pick 13.2 when you are not camping and the batteries are already full and now all you want to do is keep them that way. (But every month while floating goose them up to 14.8 (or more) anyway to cure any stratification)
If you have shore power leave the solar at 13.2 and let the converter do it. - westendExplorer
mitch5252 wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
Ok now that I have some internet, I see that it is indeed true that the OP's controller is made by the same company as my Solar30, China
Solar. No wonder the display looked familiar! :)
On the OP's last post with the controller info link, yes that is what we are trying to explain. The main thing is that the solar controller stops charging overnight, so it is not quite the same as a single stage converter for how it might "boil" your batteries. But as it says, you still have to pick your (lower) voltage for a long term Float like when not camping but in "storage."
It is not that onerous a chore, so do not despair at all the work involved :)
http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/user-manual/solar30.pdf
Your instructions were much more informative than what I got.
Looking at the readout of the controller, you have 6 screw holes - 2 panel, 2 battery, 2 load. In your instructions, it shows LOAD DISCHARGING CURRENT. Is that only for something connected in the last 2 holes (Load), or can it be applicable to the discharge of whatever is connected to the middle 2 holes (Battery)? (these questions are clear in my head...they may not translate well. Sorry!)
Forget about "load" terminals on the controller, you'll never use them. There are probably some settings for the "load" circuit. Since you won't be using them, you can turn everything off or to a minimum.
What you want to fiddle with are the battery charging setpoints. - xzyHollyxyzExplorer
BFL13 wrote:
Ok now that I have some internet, I see that it is indeed true that the OP's controller is made by the same company as my Solar30, China
Solar. No wonder the display looked familiar! :)
On the OP's last post with the controller info link, yes that is what we are trying to explain. The main thing is that the solar controller stops charging overnight, so it is not quite the same as a single stage converter for how it might "boil" your batteries. But as it says, you still have to pick your (lower) voltage for a long term Float like when not camping but in "storage."
It is not that onerous a chore, so do not despair at all the work involved :)
http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/user-manual/solar30.pdf
Your instructions were much more informative than what I got.
Looking at the readout of the controller, you have 6 screw holes - 2 panel, 2 battery, 2 load. In your instructions, it shows LOAD DISCHARGING CURRENT. Is that only for something connected in the last 2 holes (Load), or can it be applicable to the discharge of whatever is connected to the middle 2 holes (Battery)? (these questions are clear in my head...they may not translate well. Sorry!) - BFL13Explorer II
BFL13 wrote:
mitch5252 wrote:
OP HERE:
I found this description of the charge controller I purchased (shown above; waiting for delivery). Did I waste my money?
This is a compatible MPPT charge controller PWM intelligent / efficient / energy saving, he not only has efficient MPPT controller charging function to automatically track the maximum power point, 10% -30% higher than the ordinary controller charging efficiency, also has standby energy saving, more than 30% energy than ordinary controller, the standby power consumption of only 10mA-15mA.
Here's the link: http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/solar-controller-cm50-cm60-cm6048-cm5048-cm3048-mppt-10-20-30.html
.
Ok now that I have some internet, I see that it is indeed true that the OP's controller is made by the same company as my Solar30, China
Solar. No wonder the display looked familiar! :)
On the OP's last post with the controller info link, yes that is what we are trying to explain. The main thing is that the solar controller stops charging overnight, so it is not quite the same as a single stage converter for how it might "boil" your batteries. But as it says, you still have to pick your (lower) voltage for a long term Float like when not camping but in "storage."
It is not that onerous a chore, so do not despair at all the work involved :)
http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/user-manual/solar30.pdf
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