Flexible Solar Panel - Will This Wire Cause Problems

mitch5252 wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
Ok now that I have some internet, I see that it is indeed true that the OP's controller is made by the same company as my Solar30, China
Solar. No wonder the display looked familiar! :)

On the OP's last post with the controller info link, yes that is what we are trying to explain. The main thing is that the solar controller stops charging overnight, so it is not quite the same as a single stage converter for how it might "boil" your batteries. But as it says, you still have to pick your (lower) voltage for a long term Float like when not camping but in "storage."

It is not that onerous a chore, so do not despair at all the work involved :)

http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/user-manual/solar30.pdf

Your instructions were much more informative than what I got.

Looking at the readout of the controller, you have 6 screw holes - 2 panel, 2 battery, 2 load. In your instructions, it shows LOAD DISCHARGING CURRENT. Is that only for something connected in the last 2 holes (Load), or can it be applicable to the discharge of whatever is connected to the middle 2 holes (Battery)? (these questions are clear in my head...they may not translate well. Sorry!)

Yes as stated, just ignore the Load terminals and all the settings for them.

Pick a number you like for charging voltage (same number will be for Floating till dark) IMO pick 14.8 when camping off grid and drawing down the battery every day while solar tries to keep up, and pick 13.2 when you are not camping and the batteries are already full and now all you want to do is keep them that way. (But every month while floating goose them up to 14.8 (or more) anyway to cure any stratification)

If you have shore power leave the solar at 13.2 and let the converter do it.