I have a 2011 Vista with the Ford V10 that I bought almost a year ago. Soon after I bought it, I went to start it and nothing. I tried a minute later and it fired right up. I have since used it heavily without issue until last weekend when it happened again. Today it happened a third time, but this time I couldn't get it started at all for about 30 min. Out of ideas, I decided to jump it and it fired right up. I suspect it was coincidence. Wondering if it could be the battery, or maybe related to that pump that powers the brake until the engine starts. The key does not have a chip, so that can't be the issue. I'll have the battery tested this weekend but in the meantime hoped somebody could lend some insight.Any thoughts?

I had this happen years ago on a car I had. I found a loose battery ground to the frame that time. It was very frustrating as the dealer had looked at it a number of time but of course it always worked fine when in for service.

By nothing, do you mean it would not turn over? Not even a click? If so, clean the battery cable clamps and posts. Get a battery brush tool and clean them well. Common for a white powdery corrosion to form under the clamps and cause that exact problem, nothing one time, good start the next.

If it's not turning over, it's probably a loose connection, a sticking solenoid, a bad neutral safety switch, or the ignition switch. Cleaning the battery connections would be a good start. The only way to really locate the problem is to trace the circuit with a meter. I would start at the starter solenoid and see if the small wire going into it is energized when the ignition is turned to the start position. If you're not getting voltage to the solenoid, it isolates the problem to the ignition, switch, or neutral safety switch. If you are getting juice to the solenoid, the issue is with the solenoid, battery, or starter.

Test battery with a hydrometer on each cell,could have one weak cell & when it gets cold out, it is effecting the battery. then test battery with a load tester. If good then go to pos. & neg. connections

BB_TX wrote:By nothing, do you mean it would not turn over? Not even a click? If so, clean the battery cable clamps and posts. Get a battery brush tool and clean them well. Common for a white powdery corrosion to form under the clamps and cause that exact probleom, nothing one time, good start the next.Turned over the fist time for maybe a second, after that not again. No dash lights came on, I could here a faint sound, I think it was the break pump cycling without enough power.

Ford won't start | Good Sam Community

17 Replies

j-d
Explorer II
Jan 17, 2015
The last one of these I looked at, circa 1999, had Key Switch, Neutral Safety Switch, Fender Solenoid, and Starter with Integral Solenoid. That was it, other'n a fuse or two.

Nowadays, it's a "Start Request" that goes down the CAN/BUS to the PCM, maybe some Interface, probably another Relay or two... then the Fender Solenoid. Makes ya wanna turn the Key to Run, open the Hood, and Jump the Solenoid with a Leatherman Tool. Oh, wait, Nobody in Driver Seat, Shoulder Harness Not Buckled...
rockhillmanor
Explorer II
Jan 16, 2015
I had mobile RV repair do it.

"I" was the one inside the MH turning the key as he tested each solenoid so I don't know where they all are except the one that needed replacement on the fender wall!! :B

Gotta tell you I thought for sure it was a dead short or something not knowing about all the solenoids. He has seen SO many of these RV's he knew right away what the problem was when I told him it wouldn't start sometimes. There is no clicking just dead won't start.

I was stuck of all places at the dump station the last time it wouldn't start.....talk about having people behind me ready to go postal!
j-d
Explorer II
Jan 16, 2015
Hey Rock! Where are the Other Two?

Checking Connections, always remember there's Ground as well as Hot. We saw a couple cases here where the Battery Cables (with molded sealed terminals on the ends) were in fact open within those invisible connections. If you put a Meter, set for Volts DC, across both ENDS of a cable or connection and try to crank it, you should see Zero or only a Volt or two. If you see a higher DC voltage, the meter's telling you there was loss between the two points you metered.

If you replace the Fender-Mounted solenoid, take a picture or make a drawing of the connections to get them all back where they belong. Otherwise you may not have power to the rest of the vehicle.
markandkim
Explorer II
Jan 16, 2015
Remember this?

FORD

Fix Or Repair Daily
Found On Road Dead
Failure On Race Day

Just a little humor from many years ago, when I was involved on drag racing at Lebonon Valley, NY.
rockhillmanor
Explorer II
Jan 16, 2015
Been there done that with my V10!

It's 'one' of the solenoids.

Unlike the old days when a starter had only one solenoid, Ford's V10 has 4!

One is attached to the starter as an assembly. If that one goes out you have to buy the whole starter.

BUT the good news is the one that is most likely gone bad is the one on the inside fender. Easy to replace and inexpensive.

Mobile repair says it's common. I turned key as he checked each solenoid. It was the one on the fender.
wcjeep
Explorer
Jan 15, 2015
As mentioned earlier, the battery could have an intermittent short. As batteries age they tend to shed. The internal metal that normally lies on the bottom of the battery can make contact to one of the cells. Moving them around can temporarily break the short. They can also test great. How old are the batteries?
ksg5000
Explorer
Jan 15, 2015
Have the battery tested - it's free and it will rule out bad battery and they will tighten connections as well.
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Jan 15, 2015
Team D wrote:
I have a 2011 Vista with the Ford V10 that I bought almost a year ago. Soon after I bought it, I went to start it and nothing. I tried a minute later and it fired right up. I have since used it heavily without issue until last weekend when it happened again. Today it happened a third time, but this time I couldn't get it started at all for about 30 min. Out of ideas, I decided to jump it and it fired right up. I suspect it was coincidence. Wondering if it could be the battery, or maybe related to that pump that powers the brake until the engine starts. The key does not have a chip, so that can't be the issue. I'll have the battery tested this weekend but in the meantime hoped somebody could lend some insight.
Any thoughts?

Battery.

These newer vehicles simply will not start (IE no click but yet you have dome lights and or headlights) IF the battery voltage is too low..

Been there, done it..

Almost was stranded at work (an hr away from home) when my 2003 F250 decided to not crank.. no clicks and headlights worked..

Got a jump from a fellow employee and walla, it started..

Ran to Sam's that night and got a new battery, no more problem..
ernie1
Explorer
Jan 15, 2015
I concur with Mex because it's quick and easy but want to add that if the headlight works but goes off after the ignition key is turned with no response from the starter, you have a bad connection probably at the battery. If that's the case,have someone jam a screwdriver between the battery post and the cable end that has the battery clamp. Try each post. If it starts, the battery terminals/cable ends need cleaning. Also clean the top of the battery of debris and moisture.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jan 15, 2015
Get a friend. Have them stand in front to the side.

Turn key. Dead

Turn on headlights

If no headlights verify buy twisting the key again. If still no headlights you have your clue.