Freezer has not reach down to zero

My Norcold was installed by a Norcold Warehouse Distributor and Manufacturer. Horrible cooling. Then after trading Sal at Kool Fun for a new Dometic, it acted the same. So I upgraded to a Norcold with ice cube maker.

After multiple D cell fans, and four 80 cfm fans were installed against the condenser (one to aid flue convection) that dropped temps 4 degrees. But food still spoiled. This was over a 5-year period and the last trip was the last for gas refrigeration. The only gas device that worked correctly was a Dometic FC-140 chest freezer. But 1.5 CF of storage was almost a joke.

I returned to Q.R. in 1990 with Vestfrost and the difference was humiliating.

Quintana Roo temps sometimes reached 117F inland. Mostly 105 - 110F on the beach with dripping humidity. I celebrated by cranking the freezer down to -10F but the ice cream needed to be warmed up. Packaged broccoli and corn and thick cut steaks (plus tubs of Rock Road ice cream and butter) lasted 6 months in Mexico, four months in Guatemala and then a return to the USA where I came down with AML, acute myleogenic leukemia.

Food storage depends heavily on length of time desired. A 45 degree refrigerator can laugh off a gallon of milk over a period of three days. But toxic stuff like cut meat is dicey at best.

And while people toke ammonia and fret over ruined vacations, I have better things to do. One of them isn't chucking prematurely spoiled food.

Keep In Mind!

A refrigerator or freezer temp that meets FDA temp guidelines is perfect. My issue included being several thousands of miles from home and spending a fortune driving a hundred miles to replace spoiled food. Top that with chew and spit lifespan and for me the choice was inevitable. Five hundred dollar cooling units do not turn me on. Try finding block ice down here and try NOwhere in Guatemala.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
hehehe

Come down here and try to gain 0F. The only valid food storage temperature recommendations are those findings as publicized in USDA Food and Drug recommendations.

A two day jaunt is vastly different than 3 or 4 weeks food storage. Bacteria multiply to the square of given time DEPENDENT on temperature. Lower temperature buys time. I have multiple refrigerators. With milk of the same expiration date, 36 versus 44 degrees resulted in the 44 degree milk going sour in six days. The 36 degree milk was like fresh. Both refrigerators otherwise were empty. The milk remained dairy sealed.

Frozen vegetables last longer at -5F than they do at +10F.

Freeze one batch of ice to -5F, the second to +15F, put five cubes from each in an 8 oz glass, fill the glasses with identical batch water, wait 5 minutes then see

The temperature of the liquid

Compare the size of the ice cubes

Physics is unforgiving.

7 yrs FT our Dometic maintained 5*F or colder in freezer and 38*F in food section routinely.
Never had any 'food spoilage' issues.

But then again our Dometic fridge was properly installed with the correct clearances so that the natural draft airflow was provided

hehehe

Come down here and try to gain 0F. The only valid food storage temperature recommendations are those findings as publicized in USDA Food and Drug recommendations.

A two day jaunt is vastly different than 3 or 4 weeks food storage. Bacteria multiply to the square of given time DEPENDENT on temperature. Lower temperature buys time. I have multiple refrigerators. With milk of the same expiration date, 36 versus 44 degrees resulted in the 44 degree milk going sour in six days. The 36 degree milk was like fresh. Both refrigerators otherwise were empty. The milk remained dairy sealed.

Frozen vegetables last longer at -5F than they do at +10F.

Freeze one batch of ice to -5F, the second to +15F, put five cubes from each in an 8 oz glass, fill the glasses with identical batch water, wait 5 minutes then see

The temperature of the liquid

Compare the size of the ice cubes

Physics is unforgiving.

Trackrig wrote:
Why does it need to reach zero? We keep ours between 15 and 20F.

Bill

How do you control freezer temp?

Food section is only compartment that has a temp sensor and that is what thermostat uses for controlling........food compartment temp.

Freezer by design gets as cold as possible..which should be 5*F or lower on a properly functioning absorption fridge

Trackrig wrote:
Why does it need to reach zero? We keep ours between 15 and 20F.

Bill

IMO that's WAY TOO WARM or something is seriously wrong with your refer. A properly working refer in temps up to around 100 should be able to keep the freezer temp below zero IMO.

If not then there is either a baffle installation issue or partially blocked boiler tube.

Larry

112V AC Power............low voltage plus you have very low Amp on element

20*F in freezer and 40*F in food compartment.......NOT cooling properly

Swap to Propane.

Replace element.

I replaced my 12 year old Domestic 2862 a month ago freezer varies during the day between -1 and +4. The lower box stays in the 39-40 range this is on AC.

MrWizard wrote:
How cold the freezer is decides how hard your ice cream is

We like our ice cream around 5-10 degrees . Good scooping temp.

MrWizard wrote:
How cold the freezer is decides how hard your ice cream is

True story ..... LOL!!

You are not using the correct tools. The Heat Element for your model is a 300 watt 2.4/2.6 amp Heating element. Heat Elements either WORK or they do not heat. There is no partial heat from a Heat Element. Freezers in almost ALL RV refers are NOT controlled by the tstat. They will get below 10 degrees regardless of the tstat setting. The operational range of a RV refer freezer is 0 to 10 degrees. Most will get slightly below zero, but that is rare. The reason the freezer does NOT need regulation is the design of the cooling unit. The extreme cold for the refer happens at the top and then goes down to the lower section and then is regulated. Has any work been done on the refer? Doug

PS, 40 degrees is NOT good. It should be below 36 degrees. I suspect a partial blocked Cooling Unit.