Fresh water gate valve leak

Egad, I am not so sure that is "FRESH" water tank..

Are you really sure about that?

Those type of gate valves are typically used to drain "grey" (sink and shower) or "black" (toilet) waste holding tanks..

What is the size? 1 1/2", 3"?

Typical freshwater tanks will use standard off the shelf water valves that are 1/2" pipe thread..

Grey tanks use 1 1/2" gate valve and black tanks use 3" gate valve.

Some RVs have two grey tanks and one of those all by it's self.. That is often due to the layout of the RV which may not allow one grey tank..

That valve is replaced by removing the four bolts holding it together, removing the bolts allows the two outside flanges to part from the gate valve body.

Replace the entire valve body, don't bother with buying just the seals..

Hahha.. that made me laugh..


ya im sure its fresh water.. its at the front of TT, under bed. The fill hole for it is the front on the side, when i start to fill it that valve starts dripping.. it is 1 1/2

There are 2 other tanks in TT, one under kitchen and one under bathroom. both those thanks drain out of one single 3" connection in the back with 2 gate valves.

So basically taking apart the valve itself will allow it to disjoin from the white pipe?

Yes.

Found a youtube video that shows how the valve assembly comes apart.

HERE

You will end up with a flange that stays connected to your tank, the other flange is the open side and the valve body goes in between the two flanges.

Personally, it IS the wrong valve for this application, there is zero need for a 1 1/2" drain on the fresh water tank unless you are planning to put out forest fires with it.. And boy, with the crud build up inside that valve I would hate to think about what water the previous owners put into that tank.. Man that is ugly mineral residue.

I would suggest once you have the valve out see if the flange on the tank side can be removed (IE not spun welded or glued in place) and then get a 1 1/2" to 1/2" pipe reducer and put a standard off the shelf 1/2" valve you would use for pressurized plumbing..

Ya, i agree its the wrong valve.. i filled up tank and let water run out, didnt seem dirty or full of deposits, but i do know that the tank itself has not been used in years. i see it leaking from where the white and black pipe meet. im off to go take it apart and see what hell it brings.. i'll post an update. thanks Gdetrailer

To replace the valve, undo the four bolts. The tank side hub will stay in place. You can the feel inside the hub to see if it is threaded or glued. You do not have to replace the tank side hub but just the valve assembly.
Look closely on side of valve, it should have the size.
A Valterra valve should fit as a replacement. Bristol 1 1/2 is a part number 39241 Amazon
You can use a new slip fit hub such as this to go into the tank. Hub
Fleetwood used this type of valves on large fresh water tanks.

i was able to unscrew the valve from the white connection body.. i screwed in a cap with some plumbers tape, filled up some water and it was still leaking. looks like its leaking from the actual connection at the base. red arrow in pic.. not good. any idea how to fix this. can i epoxy? can i have a new connection spun weld? any help is greatly appreciated.

What size is the pipe?

Unscrew and remove the cap you just install. As best you can (camera, mirror, by feel), check the inside of the tank to see of the leaking connector is also held in-place by a screwed on ring to a connector that also is threaded.

They may have used a male threaded connector inserted into the tank with a ring (and hopefully non unglued gasket) to tighten the connecter to the tank. They may have used only a silicone type bond to seal it on the outside.

it is inch and a half pipe. 1 1/2 .

and i felt inside the hole and there is no connection up in the tank..looks to be spun weld.

Check to see if there is someone local that welds plastic.
Might look into something like this flange