Fresh water inlet spring thingy broken

Wrace wrote:
Sent the local RV parts/dealer a picture of the inlet and he replied that they had these in stock - all the same plate/inlet but three different versions with different connections.

"One that is plastic check valve ½” MPT We have one that is brass check valve with ½ MPT and one that is brass check valve with ½” female pipe thread. They all look the same from the outside".

So I guess I'll pull this one out and take it with me to the store. Their price is likely going to be higher than online but I have the time today to work on this thing and would like to get it done and off my list.

Sometimes the local indy retailer is less than buying online from Camping World, etc. I saved a couple bucks buying a part for my Toro lawn mower part from my pricy retailer, versus online. Go figure!

Sent the local RV parts/dealer a picture of the inlet and he replied that they had these in stock - all the same plate/inlet but three different versions with different connections.

"One that is plastic check valve ½” MPT We have one that is brass check valve with ½ MPT and one that is brass check valve with ½” female pipe thread. They all look the same from the outside".

So I guess I'll pull this one out and take it with me to the store. Their price is likely going to be higher than online but I have the time today to work on this thing and would like to get it done and off my list.

His new name is "Senior Moment" Biscuit. Surely there must be other sources than CW... that was the senior moment.

Wrace wrote:
Thanks for the replies.

Short term I'll try stacking some washers in there and see if that existing plastic plug will seal. As it is the plug stops well short of sealing against the single washer. If that doesn't work I'll try the pvc plug. That will at least get me through this next trip.

There is little chance of getting to the inside where this inlet is mounted as it's buried behind the tub.

I'm wondering how this is typically replaced? Unscrew the plate, break the sealant and then the whole connected assembly pulls out far enough to unscrew the inlet and replace with the new one?

Or is the fitting that the inlet nipple screws into fixed to the floor and the inlet must be screwed into it, hoping that it screws in far enough to make a good seal (with tape) and at the same time the plate stops flush against the side of the trailer? If that made any sense...

We've used an infill of silicone caulk, held in-place by duct tape for 72 hours, then remove duct tape and hit it again with an infill of silicone caulk covered by duct tape again. That's held-up over 10 years and no complaints yet. Gorilla Tape will work too, if you can't find duct tape.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
The quick "fix" is to just screw on an inline hose shutoff. They're about $2.50 at the nearest Walmart or home improvement store.

Mine died in the middle of a 2 week camping trip. I used the above pictured fix until I got home, when I replaced the faulty check valve.

Wrace wrote:
I'm wondering how this is typically replaced? Unscrew the plate, break the sealant and then the whole connected assembly pulls out far enough to unscrew the inlet and replace with the new one?

Yep, that is exactly how you fix it.

NOTE: After replacing the check valve, you will have to caulk around the fixture to keep water out. Do NOT use any caulk with the word "silicone" in it. While silicone does what it advertizes, when you have to revisit that area later, you will never get caulk to stick there again.

Thanks for the replies.

Short term I'll try stacking some washers in there and see if that existing plastic plug will seal. As it is the plug stops well short of sealing against the single washer. If that doesn't work I'll try the pvc plug. That will at least get me through this next trip.

There is little chance of getting to the inside where this inlet is mounted as it's buried behind the tub.

I'm wondering how this is typically replaced? Unscrew the plate, break the sealant and then the whole connected assembly pulls out far enough to unscrew the inlet and replace with the new one?

Or is the fitting that the inlet nipple screws into fixed to the floor and the inlet must be screwed into it, hoping that it screws in far enough to make a good seal (with tape) and at the same time the plate stops flush against the side of the trailer? If that made any sense...

It's easy to install a new city water inlet but you'll need a tube of caulk.

Simplest solution is to buy a 1/2" check valve like in the photo (under $10) and screw into onto the interior side of the inlet fitting. The threads are standard 1/2" pipe thread. Remove all the pieces of the original check valve.

Bid box stores have a pvc plug that screws right in there for a stopper.

computerbug wrote:
Old biscuit Can we have your private number or do you have a team?

I can imagine it now:

"Hello....this is OB from the Marcus' Rapid Response Team...."

Chris Bryant wrote:
There is no reason that plastic plug should not hold pressure, just screw it in tight.

It might need a hose washer added or replaced, but yes, it should hold under pressure as long as it's not damaged.