We were getting our new(to us) 11 Outback 295RE ready to go for a long weekend and we always plug the camper in the night before to give the Fridge time to get cold so we can load it up. Well went out yesterday fridge and freezer good and cold, however you can hear it cycling on and off. About 10-15 second intervals. On for about 5 sec off for 10-15. This is like our 5th camper and have never experienced this...Is this normal? It is set on auto with propane off so I don't believe that has anything to do with it..any help would be greatly appreciated..
Before spending any money, there is likely a simple fix. The thermal switch may have come loose from the heat sink fin it is mounted to. These thermal switches must have a good thermal connection to the temperature of item they are monitoring. If they don’t have a good thermal connection, rapid cycling occurs. Here is why: when the switch heats up, it switches on the cooling fan, and the fan will begin to cool the heat sink, but the thermal switch will first rapidly cool down, given it isn’t reflecting the actual temperature of the heat sink. In this case, the switch opens and turns off the fan, however the heat sinks isn’t actually cool enough yet. The thermal switch heats up again, etc. etc.
The solution is to assure a good thermal connection to the fin or area it is connected to. Assure that the fin is flat. The best thermal connection can be made by applying some silicon heat sink compound. It is a type of thick (typically white) grease that transfers heat well. Apply a small amount between the switch and whatever it is connected too (heat sink fin shown) to assure good heat transfer. This solved my rapid cycling issues. Look for “Thermal Paste Grease Compound for Heatsinks”. Should be about $6 for a small tube.
Not exactly related to the rapid cycling, but in the same circuit, I upgraded the fans and did a little improvement to the systems air flow. Originally there was one small fan mounted to the back of the refrig pointed toward the heat dissipating fins. Without to much more discussion a fan out in the open air can create a circular air flow which reduces its efficiency. I added some pressboard plates with holes for the new larger fans I used and also added some air guides to assure the air flow hit the fins.
I am sure he has already spent the money if he was going to considering the post is 11 years old. but you bring up an interesting issue and solution if that is the issue, might be worth starting a new post and copy that into the DIY section.
With the CAMCO kit, you do not. The idea is that it creates the flow from above. Fan, Vent Cover and Solar Panel are all one piece. Remove then Reinstall Four Screws and you're done. Many techs put sealant over the screw heads. $77.48 on Amazon.
ktmrfs wrote: ok, here is the likely issue. First the good news. Outback did the fridge install as dometic outlines, proper baffling, proper venting, and including the thermostatically controlled 12V fan across the coils in the proper location. Makes for good fridge operation, good and cold etc. etc.
So what's the problem??? Well, something you likely won't get dometic or a dealer to fix for free, and it's time consuming. The issue is that on some dometic fridges the thermostatic button either comes loose or partially fails and ends up with a too close on/off temperature difference. So you get the cycling. To fix it means pulling the fridge to get access to the fan and thermoswitch, since it is about half way up the stack.
I've know mutliple folks with properly installed fridges that have experienced this issue.
What you'll likely find is it happens most at moderate temperatures. Hot days the fan will run almost continously. Cold days it won't come on, Nice days, it cycles on and off.
Mine worked fine till this last summer, when it started acting up.
So what can you do?? Fortunetly one fix is reasonably easy,
1) get one of the solar fan kits and install it. This will keep enough air flowing and without very much noise, so the normal fan never comes on. There are several options, one has a solar panel that fits on the fridge top vent cover. and mount the fan either at the top of the vent. (requires cutting and replacing the screen) or drop the wire down the stack and mount the fan at the bottom of the compartment. I did this mod, and it stopped the cycling of the normal fan completely.
2) Live with it. It isn't hurting anything, other than what can be an anoying noise when everything in the trailer is quite.
and it has nothing to do with power source, AC or propane.
How would I go about mounting the solar panel..I have never done anything like that but doesn't sound like it would be to difficult..
see the post from DE bishop. The camco system is what I used, works fine. There are other less expensive solar fridge fans, but they take a little more DIY mounting.
D.E.Bishop wrote: There is a complete solar fan assembly by CAMCO, Solar Refrigeration Roof Vent System, Camco Number - 42165. I think that everything you need to install the system is included except, being handy, tools and a nice overcast day to get on top of the rig.
I forgot, the system's MSRP is $146.00. Search the net and I'm sure you can save 15-25%.
that's what I used, got it on amazon for under $100.
There is a complete solar fan assembly by CAMCO, Solar Refrigeration Roof Vent System, Camco Number - 42165. I think that everything you need to install the system is included except, being handy, tools and a nice overcast day to get on top of the rig.
I forgot, the system's MSRP is $146.00. Search the net and I'm sure you can save 15-25%.
ktmrfs wrote: ok, here is the likely issue. First the good news. Outback did the fridge install as dometic outlines, proper baffling, proper venting, and including the thermostatically controlled 12V fan across the coils in the proper location. Makes for good fridge operation, good and cold etc. etc.
So what's the problem??? Well, something you likely won't get dometic or a dealer to fix for free, and it's time consuming. The issue is that on some dometic fridges the thermostatic button either comes loose or partially fails and ends up with a too close on/off temperature difference. So you get the cycling. To fix it means pulling the fridge to get access to the fan and thermoswitch, since it is about half way up the stack.
I've know mutliple folks with properly installed fridges that have experienced this issue.
What you'll likely find is it happens most at moderate temperatures. Hot days the fan will run almost continously. Cold days it won't come on, Nice days, it cycles on and off.
Mine worked fine till this last summer, when it started acting up.
So what can you do?? Fortunetly one fix is reasonably easy,
1) get one of the solar fan kits and install it. This will keep enough air flowing and without very much noise, so the normal fan never comes on. There are several options, one has a solar panel that fits on the fridge top vent cover. and mount the fan either at the top of the vent. (requires cutting and replacing the screen) or drop the wire down the stack and mount the fan at the bottom of the compartment. I did this mod, and it stopped the cycling of the normal fan completely.
2) Live with it. It isn't hurting anything, other than what can be an anoying noise when everything in the trailer is quite.
and it has nothing to do with power source, AC or propane.
How would I go about mounting the solar panel..I have never done anything like that but doesn't sound like it would be to difficult..
ashnic wrote: Thanks for the great info..I am pretty handy but have never pulled a fridge..is it that difficult?
Not real difficult.
Remove the outside cover to the fridge, disconnect gas line (make sure tanks are off), loosen 2 screws where 12V connects at the bottom (check color coding and/or mark them before disconnecting). Unplug 110v plug.
There are 2 screws in the "tracks" at the bottom into the plywood floor. Remove then go inside.
Remove the cover with the eyebrow controls. It pretty much just pulls straight out. Two screws up into the trim above fridge. Remove trim at the bottom, again it just pulls straight out and remove 2 more screws.
There could be screws at the side going into the trim beside the door.
Go outside and push gently. It should move inward a little bit. This is where it gets a little tricky. Go inside and create some type of platform for the refer to slide out onto. I use an old tub with a piece of plywood that matches the height of the bottom of the fridge.
Grab the fridge and slide it out onto the "platform". Takes me about 10 minutes to remove one.
ashnic wrote: Thanks for the great info..I am pretty handy but have never pulled a fridge..is it that difficult?
I haven't pulled one either. But from looking at it, I'd say more time consuming and akward than difficult. And once it's out setting it someplace where you won' damage the floor or carpet.
But there are plenty of folks who have, hopefully someone can chime in and post their experiece.
About Technical Issues
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With the CAMCO kit, you do not. The idea is that it creates the flow from above. Fan, Vent Cover and Solar Panel are all one piece. Remove then Reinstall Four Screws and you're done. Many techs put sealant over the screw heads.
