Fried

If the converter does auto-equlize voltage can go higher than 14.6 boost (like 15.6 or higher)

12 volt gear should go to a minimum of 14.4 w/o damage usually higher but in today's world of "Cut the cost" manufacturing (Thank You Wal*Mart) design may not be that good.

And spikes are indeed possible.

I've seen many inverters "Track". The higher the battery voltage, the higher the output voltage.

Why not check your inverter's plug with a volt meter and range the battery state of charge to see if this is fact?

I've seen many inverters "Track". The higher the battery voltage, the higher the output voltage.

Why not check your inverter's plug with a volt meter and range the battery state of charge to see if this is fact?

What is the voltage and amp rating of the power supply? Is it a brick transformer with DC output?

Oh I can understand that. Maybe I will try that. I will also get a new ps for the speakers in the meantime.

64thunderbolt wrote:
if the conv is connected to the batteries what would it change if I connected it to the batteries?

Your question is kind of convoluted but I think I'm understanding this.

If your inverter is powered from the terminal of the converter, any type of ripple or spike is going directly to the inverter, and maybe, on to the device you're powering.
If your inverter is powered from the terminals of the battery, any AC hash or DC spike is intervened by the battery which acts like a large capacitor and resistor.

if the conv is connected to the batteries what would it change if I connected it to the batteries?

Another good reason to power an inverter from the batteries. The power from the converter may not be that clean, an AC carrier could be in the output and the inverter may pass that ripple through to a device. A battery acts like a big capacitor so any AC on the converter's output or a DC spike will be eliminated.

A typical surge protector on the AC from the inverter will probably not save your bacon, most of these are typically MOV devices that only drop connection when there is a lot of energy to dissipate (think dead short or lightning). A filter and surge protector may catch any nastiness before it hits the speaker's PS. The price of a different set of powered speakers or using passive speakers connected to an audio output may be less than rewiring or buying an AC filter.

Checking the a/c is my next move. The inv is in a cab above the fridge and wired to the batt term on the back of the conv. I have thought about a surg protector and pluggin the speakers to that.

How is the inverter wired to 12v? I also use powered speakers from a MSW 150w inverter, but it is just plugged into the 12v socket in the Winegard. Thing is the 12v plug has a fuse in it, so I think that protects the inverter from anything funny happening to its 12v input and so anything plugged into the 120v output (maybe). Of course the Winegard socket is also on a fuse in the DC fuse panel marked TV.

Could you test the output of the inverter with a meter just as the converter goes to 14.8 and see if it spikes?