Forum Discussion

robanddi's avatar
robanddi
Explorer
Jun 20, 2016

Frig cooling issue with Dometic Model DM2862RBX (2013)

I had ice on back of freezer section (1/4 inch thick in worst part) and freezer was full with frozen stuff. Small ice cream cups started to melt was my first clue. Did not think to take temp before defrosting. Emptied, cleaned off ice and within an hour temperature in freezer was 14 degrees.

The food storage compartment had no ice on the fins (usually when I need to defrost this area has ice build-up). However, food and drinks are not cold enough. Compartment is full (but not stuffed). After defrosting freezer, the compartment fins after two hours plus range from 57 to 51 degrees (we have one of those digital pointer things to check wheel temps).

I had removed drinks and put them in ice chests so there is considerably more room for air circulation. I know the manual says cool it down empty overnight but my experience in the past says unit cools sooner … we never turn the thing off; it runs on A/C most of the time but propane while traveling.

There is no sulfur smell inside or outside and no dreaded yellow residue in outside compartment and all the pipes feel hot to touch.

Question #1: Why would freezer temp be okay but the lower compartment be too warm?

Doors seal properly and we were not opening and closing very much … it is just the two of us. Also did not add lots of warm stuff (bottle water and can soda which had been in the coach so not real hot).

Question #2: How significant is outside temperature on refrigerator function? Especially when afternoon sun hits that side of the coach directly.

We are dry camping in a parking lot (waiting for some engine work) in Pueblo, CO, temperature is running in high 90’s and low 100’s with humidity of 21 percent. We are running generator and both A/C units and inside coach temp is mid 70’s.

Question #3: What are reasonable temps for freezer and compartment when outside air is high 90’s?

Diann

5 Replies

  • A RV cooling unit is NOT regulated above the lower section, hence the freezer gets between 0 and 10 degrees regardless of the Temp setting on the refer. The freezer will get COLD faster. You MUST wait 24 hours for a test of the lower section. Air MUST circulate in the lower section. That means you must have at least 1 inch free space at the back wall of the lower section. This allows convection air to flow quicker from the bottom of the refer up and thru the evap fins to remove the heat. The fins will be 10 degrees colder than the temp of items in the refer. If the fins are 26 degrees, then the items will be 36 degrees. A BAD(blocked) cooling unit will still get the freezer extremely cold. That is why novice RV'ers that buy used units and do not understand this get ripped off when they see the freezer is real cold and assume the refer is working to spec, but then find out the refer is BAD. Give it overnight and see what the temps are in the morning. Doug
  • Put that pointy thing back in the box. They are picky on how to measure and get an accurate reading.
    Just use regular thermometer or temperature probe.
  • Thanks, RSF145. I think I can live with the situation until we get home. Unfortunately we have much more serious issue with the fuel delivery system. We are 870 miles from home!
  • We had a similar problem and realized that if we run the AC the refrig didn't have to work so hard. And we were in HIGH heat outside! If you open the door for seconds it will raise by 10 degrees and always put already cold things in this frig. Hope this helps!