G6A-4E Direct ignition gas water heater problem

I would change the ECO and T-stat first see if that fixes the problem.

Alrighty......
When you state " water heater not turning off and releases the pressure relief valve" do mean the relief valve is popping open and BLOWING
OR do you mean the relief valve is 'weeping'


BLOWING....
That is a failure of the T-stat AND the ECO
T-stat is the normal temp controlling the heat cycles. OPENS when water temp reaches 140*F and CLOSES when water temp drops to >110*F

Then the ECO has to fail to OPEN. It is the 'Energy Cut Off' (High temp t-stat)
It OPENS when water temp reaches 180*F and shuts down all heating functions. When it OPENS it triggers the 'RED Fault Light' on the ON/OFF switch and 'LOCKS OUT' the water heater controls so heating can not occur.
ECO resets when temp drops >150*F BUT 'RED FAULT'/'LOCK OUT' has to be manually reset by turning switch OFF, wait 30 seconds then turn back ON

T&P Relief Valve is last ditch safety device.
POPS OPEN when temp reaches 210*F OR pressure increases to 150PSI

T-stat/ECO need to be replaced.....tank area where t-stats touch wall of tank should be clean and then both t-stats need to be held TIGHTLY against tank wall





Weeping..........
That is easier. Means 'air pocket' in top of tank has been lost so pressure inside tank increases when water is being heated
Water swells when heated and does not compress so pressure will increase causing T&P Relief Valve to weep (drip water continuously)
Air Pocket in top of tank allows for swelling of hot water and control of pressure increase

To re-establish air pocket
Turn water supply OFF
Open a faucet hotside to relieve any pressure---leave open
OPEN T&P Relief Valve..hold open until water stops running out (CAUTION: WATER CAN BE SCALDING HOT!!!!)
Let T&P Snap closed
Close open faucet
Turn water supply back on

Thanks for the informative replies.

I will replace the part as soon as I can. On mine it means removing the inset cover that holds all the controls. I have to remove several parts to get to it. It will not come out the front because there is something holding it in. I notice the replacement part has a spring on the inside holding it in. Foam cover removed easily...but can't remove the other two items. Never make it easy do they?

Any suggestions on replacing the part other than disassembly?

The two parts you refer to are really easy to remove, once you understand how they are installed. They are located in the thin space between the wall of the tank and the sheetmetal housing. They are held in place by spring tension, with the weak spring pushing them tight. You may have to tap them with a screwdriver if they are corroded and stuck, and maybe bend a tab back on the tin, but they will come out.

Step one on any trouble shooting with these things is clean electrical connections, and many problems are resolved once they are cleaned. I typically sand all the male posts on the stake on connections with an emery board. I then use a pliers to lightly tighten the female end, it necessary, and shot a little WD-40 in them. They should actually leave a light scrape mark on the clean terminal after they are installed and removed. The control board can also be dirty enough to cause issue. If you pull the multipin connector off, you can clean the contacts on the board, with a pencil eraser.

Many, many thanks to all of you who responded. I love the fact that we can go online and solve almost any mechanical problem with the awesome help of knowledgeable people. Thanks you again for your responses. No off to "fix" my water heater problem. You are the best!

Jackson