Gas Valve Solenoid on Dometic RM 763 Fridge
I smelled propane and went hunting armed with a trusty spray bottle filled with soapy water. I found a leak on the housing of the propane/gas valve/solenoid in the rear of the fridge (Dometic RM 763)....
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So final update on this project.
The burner valve assembly arrived. First thing I did was confirm/check the manufacturer stamp/silkscreen on the solenoid was what I needed. Photo below confirms a 12VDC 0.5PSI solenoid/valve.
Next I checked the burner nozzle size on the new valve and as per next photo it was a "58" vs the "53" on the original nozzle.
Next photo shows the 4 position plug on the new burner power wiring.
Here's a photo of P8 on the Dinosaur board where the 12vdc power comes from to open/close the new valve solenoid.
Next photo is a test fit of the new burner plug on the Dinosaur board. It fits, but one of the wires needs to move.
In order to remove the yellow wire from the plug, I cut the plastic surrounding the pin so I could extract the pin (I didn't have a proper wire extraction tool). Then I inserted the yellow wire into the proper location. The solenoid operates the same regardless of the +/- orientation of the 12vdc power. (I confirmed this with a bench test some time ago.)
Next photo shows the modified plug installed on P8 of the Dinosaur board and the jumper cut as required.
Next photo shows the new valve installed on the original burner metalwork. I had to rotate the new burner to fit under the refrigerant pipe. But I can still access the brass shutoff knob here. I was using soapy water to check the valve for leaks. Also, I replaced the "58" nozzle with the "53" from the original valve. I also double-checked the (air) space between the end of the new valve/nozzle and the burner orifice was the same as the original.
Success! Next photo shows the burner lit/operating with the new valve.
I un-plugged/plugged the 120VAC power cord from the fridge several times to make sure the propane was shut off/on as expected.
The burner valve assembly arrived. First thing I did was confirm/check the manufacturer stamp/silkscreen on the solenoid was what I needed. Photo below confirms a 12VDC 0.5PSI solenoid/valve.
Next I checked the burner nozzle size on the new valve and as per next photo it was a "58" vs the "53" on the original nozzle.
Next photo shows the 4 position plug on the new burner power wiring.
Here's a photo of P8 on the Dinosaur board where the 12vdc power comes from to open/close the new valve solenoid.
Next photo is a test fit of the new burner plug on the Dinosaur board. It fits, but one of the wires needs to move.
In order to remove the yellow wire from the plug, I cut the plastic surrounding the pin so I could extract the pin (I didn't have a proper wire extraction tool). Then I inserted the yellow wire into the proper location. The solenoid operates the same regardless of the +/- orientation of the 12vdc power. (I confirmed this with a bench test some time ago.)
Next photo shows the modified plug installed on P8 of the Dinosaur board and the jumper cut as required.
Next photo shows the new valve installed on the original burner metalwork. I had to rotate the new burner to fit under the refrigerant pipe. But I can still access the brass shutoff knob here. I was using soapy water to check the valve for leaks. Also, I replaced the "58" nozzle with the "53" from the original valve. I also double-checked the (air) space between the end of the new valve/nozzle and the burner orifice was the same as the original.
Success! Next photo shows the burner lit/operating with the new valve.
I un-plugged/plugged the 120VAC power cord from the fridge several times to make sure the propane was shut off/on as expected.
