Gate Valves: Good or bad quality ones?

Question

A couple months ago I had to back my TT down a very narrow twisty path that was overgrown with bush. I had to get out with a saw several times just to get it in there.

Anyhow, there was a pile of old lumber on one side and I didn't see it.

I twanged my dump plumbing on the way by. Not enough to rip it off, fortunately, but I have cracked something, not sure just what it is. There was remnant of old wood on my black gate valve.

When I pull the cap off to dump, there is a lot of liquid in the pipe from my black tank.

Also, when I am set up and the TT is in use there is a constant very slow drip coming from the area at the back of my black gate valve. A bit embarrassing when I am in a customers driveway!! :o

I haven't crawled under to get a good look yet, as the entire area is covered with road dirt and mud from the trip through the Canadian Rockies a few weeks back.

I think I may have to replace the gate valve and possibly so some black pipe repair or replacement.

Question is:

Is there any brands of gate valves that are better than others? I'm sure there are the el-cheapos that you can get from WalMart and such, but considering the location and what the function is, I don't care what I pay for the thing, but I want a really good quality valve.

Does anyone have experience in these things? Know of a good brand name that is noted for quality?

rls7201 · Answer

Valterra is one of the major players in RV dump valves. I've been happy with mine.
I drill, tap and screw a grease zerk in the side of my dump valves. Makes for nice and easy operation.
Before the nay-sayers speak. NO the seals are NOT rubber. They are neoprene and grease won't hurt them.

Richard

golf_bears · Answer

RLS7201,Drill and tap for a zerk sounds like a great idea.  Can you be more specific with exactly where to drill and tap.  I'd like to give this a try.  Thanks.

bfl13 · Answer

Not clear where the damage is. On ours, there is a black tank valve in the middle of the trailer, hard to get at with the underbelly cover etc, controlled by a long rod to the side where its handle is, then a pipe over to the other side where the cap is for dumping.

I added a second valve behind the side dump cap so now you have to open the two valves. I had to saw off some pipe and add in the new knife valve I got at an RV shop, then add on the rest of the dumping end with its cap. Gives me better control of the dumping because the valve handles for the tanks are on the opposite side of the trailer from the dumping side! Running back and forth like crazy no fun. Fixed!

Anyway, the "usual suspect" knife valve at the RV shop has been fine, no trouble. Four screws easy install. I spray it with silicone spray every so often which keeps it all working nicely.

I also got one of those clear elbows to add to the hose that goes on the dump pipe so I can see when each tank is done and also when the black tank sprayer has finished doing any more good, so I can quit doing that. Very entertaining to watch all that stuff going by the clear elbow, better than television :)

rls7201 · Answer

golf_bears wrote:RLS7201,Drill and tap for a zerk sounds like a great idea.  Can you be more specific with exactly where to drill and tap.  I'd like to give this a try.  Thanks.I put the zerk in the section where the gate parks, when the valve is OPEN. Go about ½ way up this section, on the thin side. CLOSE valve, Drill (7/32"), tap (1/4" x 28tps) OPEN valve, screw in zerk, if it touches the gate, goto the next step. Remove zerk, put some 2 part epoxy on the threads, screw in zerk until it touches the gate and back off 1/4 turn. Let set until epoxy hardens. The grease should lubricate the full surface of both sides of the gate.To sum up, don't drill into the gate. Don't lock the gate in place with the zerk.Richard

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Gate Valves: Good or bad quality ones?

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