Generator size for Megawatt PS?

I have the Mega Watt 30 amp unit set at 15.0V. A Honda Eu-1000, at 7000 feet elevation, will keep up with the 30 amp unit, but the motor better be warmed up before you turn the Mega Watt on first thing in the morning, cause it's gonna pull a good sized draw in the first minute or two before getting back down from 39 or 40 amps back down to 29 amps. The EU1000i grunts pretty good once you flip the switch.

My EU2000i barely breaks a sweat with the 30 amp charger at first start up. The Eu2000i will be fine with your 40 amp PSU Mega Watt.

If all you have access to is a EU1000i, then just get the 30 amp Mega Watt instead.

You can also get rid of the heater fan by getting a catalytic heater and cracking a vent and a window instead, saves the recharging of the batteries. Just remember it requires proper ventilation. I can't sleep with my heater blower fan running, too damn loud, and too damn wasteful, way too much heat goes out the exhaust.

I would not feel good borrowing someone else's equipment, but that may just be me, and the way I was raised... neither beg, borrow, nor lend, unless in an absolute emergency, otherwise, rent it or buy it.

Thanks for the comments, I figured a 2000 would run it easy, and the 1000 would be iffy just based on the wattage, but haven't seen anyone talking about generators specifically.

MexicoWanderer- Not sure how the run cap would be wired - in parallel with the input of the Megawatt to provide the inrush surge current? Are you saying this would make the 1000 work?

Regarding my power consumption - I've measured my fridge using 0.36A on LP - <9AH/Day. With my LEDs (0.2A each) and water pump(3.4A), I think I'd be stretching to use more than 20AH on a normal day. My CO detector runs off a 9V, and I don't have a propane detector (1995 trailer).

The furnace (5A) is the killer in my opinion, I feel that I could do most of a week in summer without running the gen. As it cools off and the furnace becomes necessary, I'd need to replace some of that blower power- so that's why I'm looking at a small generator.


Fred, I've been looking very hard at solar too, and if I had to buy a generator today - I'd forgo it & get about 200-250W of panels instead. Since I have a Honda available to borrow, I can put that decision off for a while.

Thanks again!

Hi,

All RV's will consume about 35 amp hours daily just to run the CO and propane detectors and the refrigerator. That can discharge your battery in less than 6 days, even without running lights, furnace, or anything else.

Run the generator about 1 hour per night, and you will make up about 35 amp hours. If you start at 80% full, it will not end up much fuller. However at about 50% full, 1 hour can put back about 25% of the storage capacity.

It is less expensive to install a couple of 120 watt solar panels. You can buy the panels for about $2 per rated watt at this place. SunElec.com

YOu will also need a controller, mounts, and wiring. That will not add to much to the system. A 120 watt panel will 'just keep up' with the 35 amp hour load, and never get ahead when the refrigerator is on. Yet it will keep the battery full while in storage, and that will prolong it's life many years, especially if you keep the battery full of distilled water.

Good luck!

Fred.

Eeny meeny minee moe...

Connect a 20 uf motor RUN capacitor

And there you go...

Burma Shave

H2000 is fine. H1000 might work but is marginal running at max.

Capn,

That model megawatt should pull about 9a. (My pm4b-45 pulls a little over 9a)

The Honda eu2000i will deliver well over 13a continuously; enough for a 60a non-pfc psu, and a 75a pfc psu.

An eu1000i would not be able to handle a non-pfc 40a charger.

You'll be able to do a 50-85% charge in 2 hours with the 40a megawatt, on those two gc-2's. You'll easily get 3 charges out of the Honda's 0.95 gallon tank.

I guess I'll have to look up what a Megawatt PS is. Ok, I guess this is a charger. Oh, yes, you said that.

41a @ 13v = 533w.

You'll be fine.