Hi, new to this forum. I am a many years of experience Travel Trailer type RV-er. We do most of our camping "dry" with out hook ups. My wife and I are getting ready to buy a new trailer that will come solar ready. It is solar ready on the roof with the quick connect. So, this is what I know, or think I know about Solar. A ten amp panel is for maintaining. Something like a 85, 100, 150 is for charging after pulling the batteries down. Big panels put out like 19volts so a regulator of sorts is necessary. I have heard there is a type of reg. that converts the excess voltage to amps and somehow makes use of those amps in the charging? Any help would be great. Web sites, dealers or distributors would be great.V-465

First off, almost all solar panels will only produce enough electricity to keep a charged battery charged up, but not to re-charge a run down battery. Second thing, solar panels are big and expensive. Unless you are willing to spend some serious money on panels that will set out on stands pointing at the sun and storing them when you are not there, forget that option.Third. I'd suggest what most people who dry camp a lot do. Buy a Honda or Yamaha "quiet" generator and charge your battery(s) for an hour or so in the morning and evening. Go9ing off topic here, but if you plan to do a lot of dry camping, consider switching to two 6 volt deep cycle batteries if your rig doesn't already have them. They work much better than 12 volt batteries, even if they are marked "deep cycle".

I would disagree with pretty much everything fishinghat said.Solar is a great addition to any boondocker's charging line-up. With enough solar, you will not need a generator in many cases.Panels are rated in watts, not amps, and basically come in two voltages... 12v nominal and 24v nominal. The charge controller you refer to is known as an mppt controller... maximum power point tracking. The other option is a pwm controller... pulse wave modulation. Actually, both are pwm, but the latter lacks the ability to track the maximum power point.

There are PWM and MPPT controllers. You want MPPT. For serious solar you need to google Morning Star, Blue Sky and some others. Many RV solar dealers will do a better installation. The solar prep, especially if it is only 10 amps is just going to keep your battery from running down in storage. When people hear 10 amps they are wowed but do the numbers. A 10 amp solar on 12 volts is only 120 watts. Equivalent to one light bulb in a stick & brick house. Current times voltage equals watts. I have a 120 watt portable unit because I dry camp 2 weeks a year. My RV is plugged in or moving the rest of the year. Plus I kick my generator on in the mornings while dry camping. You may want to be thinking 60 to 80 amp mppt controller. An 80 amp controller will give you 960 watts. If you buy a large controller you can add more panels as needed. Don't know where you live but talk to some Solar dealers first. I think you would be wasting money on a manufacturer prep unless it was an 80 amp. Think you would be looking at #4 wire. JMHO

Like with all things "rv electrical", you must first determine your needs/usage, then size your entire system accordingly... that means battery bank, converter, charger, inverter, solar, generator, wiring, etc. It may seem a little overwhelming at first, but it's not that difficult... and you have experience rv'ing, so that will help lots.Best thing to do is list what you have in the way of batteries, chargers, etc., and your daily usage, and many here can point you in the right direction. There is a lot to learn about solar, but you don't need a phd in solar energy to get started. And the good news is, solar is coming way down in price. About $2/watt will get you a modest system.

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62 Replies

JiminDenver
Explorer II
May 10, 2015
Generally a 3000w unit is needed. Some report with lower but that's usually at sea level on a cooler day. Go up or get hot and oops. Two 2000w combined is a safe bet and flexible but they will be louder than the 3000w unit while running the air.

The one consideration is if you are going up in altitude like I do, it takes a lot more generator than at sea level. Up there the popular inverter choices don't stand a chance and a 3500/4000 open frame is on the upper limits to do the job. I can run the converter or the air, not both.
Vintage465
Nomad
May 10, 2015
OK, so now for a backup generator on those days that nothing has gone right....What size generator will I need to adequately run 13.5k air conditioner? I had always heard a 2000w will run a 13.5. Then I was reading about one of these parallel connector kits to go between two 2000w Honda's to run a roof top A/C? Any Ideas?

Thanks!
V-465
pianotuna
Nomad III
May 09, 2015
Hi V-465,

I have no objection to owner directed dealer installations. What I hate is when the dealer knows better and provides substandard parts at exorbitant mark ups.

I had an oil change this spring from my storage dealer. I provided the oil and filter. They stiffed me $144.00 smackers. The previous year it had been $89 with them supplying the oil.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
May 09, 2015
V-456,

Good plan, enjoy the rig.
Vintage465
Nomad
May 09, 2015
pianotuna wrote:
.

Yes the new trailer comes from the factory with 8 gauge wire and a real nice battery disconnect. I was able to strike a deal to have a 300w system installed with two batteries that I will provide. Now before you rail on me for going dealer installed, the reason I went that route is, I have no experience with the modern type roof systems and making penetrations and sealing. Since this is a brand new trailer and the dealer I am purchasing the trailer from is installing the system, they can also answer any warranty issues that could pop up. Also, I really don't quite feel compfy installing something with no experience and throwing the switch. Add to that the fact that I work 60 hrs. minimum a week at my regular job, any time I have off, I plan on traveling. Once I get this trailer in my hot little hands and get to understand the whole deal better I can start making upgrades as necessary. I just dig how everyone posting all of their experiences with Solar.

V-465
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
May 09, 2015
I purchased the Interstate GC2-XHD 232AH batteries for $110 each wholesale price, about $150 otherwise. Purchased 2/15 with a factory date of 2/15 – like brand new.
Vintage465
Nomad
May 09, 2015
So I checked with the local Interstate Battery supplier and they stock 6v RV batteries and the taller plastic boxes to install them. Is there a particular model # of Interstate battery that is recommended? I was pretty impressed with the $110.00 each price. Not very impressed with the $30.00 core charge each though. I like the torklift boxes linked in an earlier post. I will likely get one of those once I get the trailer and check fit-ability. That thread on the solar install is outrageous! After I get my new trailer and have a little more Solar savy under my belt I would like to improve the system a little with something like that! This has been a great topic for a thread and there is so much info right in the subscribers to this post.

V-465
time2roll
Nomad
May 09, 2015
Vintage465 wrote:
What about battery boxes for these batteries?
Solar thread with nice battery box

Actually I use this same polyethylene box in my front compartment.
IIRC it is a Dyno box from fisheriessupply.com
pianotuna
Nomad III
May 07, 2015
.
westend
Explorer
May 07, 2015
Vintage465 wrote:
smkettner wrote:
Call Costco if they stock them in your area.
Probably need to ask for the tire department and ask for 'golf car' batteries.

http://www.costco.com/WarehouseLocatorView?catalogId=10701&langId=-1&storeId=10301&fromWLocSubmit=true&location=prunedale%2C+ca&numOfWarehouses=5

And honestly if any battery lasted just two years it is most likely poor usage and maintenance habits. So I am sure your luck will improve no matter what is chosen.

I am totally guilty of the quote above. Really only the poor maintenance part of it. We were always careful when camping. What about battery boxes for these batteries?

I like these boxes. Torklift makes nice aluminum boxes that have a good locking feature (if that's important).

Are you using a battery disconnect switch with your batteries?

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