"... On my fully charged (as verified by a hyd dip) batts with the Boondocker set to 14.8V the Kill a Watt was still showing about a 30W draw. I'm thinking I could use that 30W as a baseline. Once it drops to 30W, I'm done."
Oops, I just realized what this might mean. Your baseline SG is the SG you get when amps are down to zero ("0") nearly. Or else when SG stops rising under some high voltage as when doing a top charge.
Trojan says 1.275 or 1.280 is "full", but my other brand 6s get to 1.295ish or so, when amps stop, so my baseline SG for "true full" is higher than 1.275 or 1.280 as specified.
This might mean I am dissolving my plates at a fast rate, or it might mean there is a disconnect between what the spec SG and spec "full" really are.
IMO if you are still drawing 30w, or maybe 3 amps at 10 -1, then at 3 amps on two 6s , you are at more like 97% SOC, which IMO despite the various blurbs, is NOT 100%.
So IMO, crank the charger to 15.5 and let that SG rise until it stops rising and call that your actual "baseline SG" and never mind what Trojan calls it. If the plates fall off a couple years early, just buy new batts when that happens. :)
To be clear, once I had that baseline SG established by going to 15.5, then I was able to see that same SG by staying at 14.8 until amps got right down to near zero (meaning keep the 14.8 going past the blurb's version of "full" which is 97% for some weird reason, instead of 100%) then you don't then have go to 15.5 every time.
