Heater won't light.
I have a 2010 Palomino Sabre 30 BHDS with a Suburban SF-35F heater. On our last trip, the heater started acting up. I wouldn't light probably 80-90% of the time. The fan would run for 30 seconds or ...
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The fan blower comes on so t-stat is working.....
Do you heard a 'clicking'......ignitor trying?
12V DC goes to module....when t-stat calls for heat power then goes to blower. When it comes up to speed sail switch closes and power goes thru sail switch and high temp limit switch and back to module. After a time delay (to purge) power from module goes to gas valve solenoids and at same to spark electrode (power to gas valves is only on for 6-8 secs) If no main flame and proof of main flame via signal sent back thru spark electrode then power shuts off
If no 'clicking' then power is not getting back to module (sail switch/high temp limit switch) OR power is not going to spark electrode OR spark electrode is grounded/out of alignment.
Could be high temp limit switch...located on chamber at the back.
Could be bad connection on module
Could be bad module
If you can access
Clean up module connector contact area----pull connector and use pencil eraser on contact area
Check for DC power out of sail-switch with blower running
Check for power at module on red (+) and yellow (-) with blower running
With furnace out
Check for continuity thru high temp limit switch
Check continuity of spark electrode high tension wire/cracked ceramic
Check spark electrode gap 1/8" and that it is positioned correctly
Do you heard a 'clicking'......ignitor trying?
12V DC goes to module....when t-stat calls for heat power then goes to blower. When it comes up to speed sail switch closes and power goes thru sail switch and high temp limit switch and back to module. After a time delay (to purge) power from module goes to gas valve solenoids and at same to spark electrode (power to gas valves is only on for 6-8 secs) If no main flame and proof of main flame via signal sent back thru spark electrode then power shuts off
If no 'clicking' then power is not getting back to module (sail switch/high temp limit switch) OR power is not going to spark electrode OR spark electrode is grounded/out of alignment.
Could be high temp limit switch...located on chamber at the back.
Could be bad connection on module
Could be bad module
If you can access
Clean up module connector contact area----pull connector and use pencil eraser on contact area
Check for DC power out of sail-switch with blower running
Check for power at module on red (+) and yellow (-) with blower running
With furnace out
Check for continuity thru high temp limit switch
Check continuity of spark electrode high tension wire/cracked ceramic
Check spark electrode gap 1/8" and that it is positioned correctly
