heating electrically

Don

I know we don't stay in temps like you do but I think you will notice a difference with the window, vent and door covers. I was even thinking of cutting foam to fit between the screen door and door to cut down on the loss.

In our trailer I thought the single pane windows that were causing the draft in them but it turned out to be the metal frames. They transmit the cold right in and even using just heavy towels to cover the whole window makes a difference.

I wonder if you can get a temperature alarm so that if something fails while you sleep, you will know it before the temperatures get deadly.

Hi Mark,

No. I might be getting enough to cover parasitic loads, and it does help "boost" the charging voltage. My solar system was designed for a four or five day trip once a month, allowing the solar to "catch up" while the rv was in storage.

I do want to migrate to at least 500 more watts of solar--but that is in a different thread.

I do have a 2800 va Yamaha generator but I refuse to run that while sleeping.

Most of my power has been coming from clients and friends. I'm set up to use up to three 15 amp circuits.

MNtundraRet wrote:
Don:

Have you been getting your all your electricity from Your solar-panels during this cold period?

Mark B.

smkettner wrote:

MNtundraRet wrote:
His customers aren't going south for the winter. At least most of them.

Why not place an ad down in Phoenix etc and see if it is worth the drive.
Give about four month window to avoid some cold.

I don't think they take their pianos with them. :B

I was faced with -30F winters in the mountains. When I woke up to 2F temperatures on 24 December in Lancaster one December, I knew my time was approaching. A large catalyst heater a NON VENTED heater OR a 99% efficient LPG vented heater must be considered. It's that or have the local power plant huffing and puffing.

There is no easy uncompromising answer to this, I'm afraid. Something has to give. In my house in the mountains, it had 2X6 construction. I had the walls filled with closed cell foam. THIRTY INCHES of "The Pink Stuff" insulation in the attic. Triple glazed windows, and a mud room entrance.

With -20F temperatures I would go to bed at 75F inside temperature and awaken to 50F temps. No heater going but a circulation fan going to keep the pipes from freezing. The only one happy in all of this was my Malamute. When Christmastime cold snaps came around I had to use the heater. An inefficient 40,000 BTU propane heater did fine but I did have a manual register on the air inlet. It costs a lot of money to be comfortable in a cold climate.

Yeah, I'm writing this wearing shorts and a tee shirt. Old people lose more heat and shiver easier.

MNtundraRet wrote:
His customers aren't going south for the winter. At least most of them.

Why not place an ad down in Phoenix etc and see if it is worth the drive.
Give about four month window to avoid some cold.

Some of you here are missing the point.

Don is on the road in S.W. Canada covering his territory for tuning pianos this winter. He is living in his MH. His plan was to get by on solar-power for the battery-bank with as little backup on generator as possible. Use of shore-power was to be minimal.

His customers aren't going south for the winter. At least most of them.

-18...I would use gas to heat with. Only I would put it in my car and head south..

Mex

I use gas as in propane gas to cool my frig

pianotuna wrote:

Sorry, I'd never use ANY unvented combustion heater. My daughter is a CO survivor. I would use a platinum cat, if I were you.

Is there any reason - other than the price - why you are not using Platinum Cat?

When I start heating with electricity I'll start cooling with gas...