Forum Discussion
GlennLever
Jul 13, 2015Explorer
Ok...Almost the finial chapter in the water heater install.
I left the heater on over night with the internal pump on to keep the pressure up. No Leaks!
This time I was smart and drained the tank before trying to move it.
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Once drain I pulled the unit out far enough so I could apply butyl tape to the back side of the flange.
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I started in the middle at the bottom and went all the way around the unit with one piece.

This was a fresh roll and working with it compared to my experience with the refrigerator was a dream.
I attempted to use the original holes but the flange holes did not line up with the holes in the motor home.
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I probably could have made them work, but I drill new holes so the screws would go in straight. I replaced the original self tapping screws with stainless steel screws.

One drill to drill the holes and the other to screw the screws in.

I trimmed off the excess butyl that was squeezed out leaving about 1/8 excess still sticking out.

I used my fingers and squished the excess into a semicircle so water would not sit on the edge of the sealant.

All of this including the silicone that I could not get off that was applied by a RV Service Center is hidden behind the cover.
Speaking of the cover, there is what appears to be a view port in it. It has always bothered me that it was opaque.

Time to do something about it.
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I cut it out and epoxied a small piece of Plexiglas over the hole from the inside.

I do not know what it's purpose is but now it is clear.

So when install what you see is the bolt that hold the air color on the gas valve in place.

Anyone know why this is here?
The inside hatch cover is put back in place.

Finished, right?
Well after several heating cycles the pressure relief valve has started to drip when the temperature of the water gets close to the high point. If I relieve the pressure by turning a hot water valve on the dripping stops.
My old tank used to do this. I replaced the pressure relieve valve on that unit and it still did it.
I have had a conversation with several people and they tell me this is a common problem,. That these hot water heaters heat the water hot as there is limited quantities of the hot water. That means you can mix more cold water with it and the hot water lasts longer.
Do you have this problem.
I am thinking of installing a drain hose from the valve through the coach and to the bottom of the coach just as the defrost from the refrigerator does.
I left the heater on over night with the internal pump on to keep the pressure up. No Leaks!
This time I was smart and drained the tank before trying to move it.

Once drain I pulled the unit out far enough so I could apply butyl tape to the back side of the flange.

I started in the middle at the bottom and went all the way around the unit with one piece.

This was a fresh roll and working with it compared to my experience with the refrigerator was a dream.
I attempted to use the original holes but the flange holes did not line up with the holes in the motor home.

I probably could have made them work, but I drill new holes so the screws would go in straight. I replaced the original self tapping screws with stainless steel screws.

One drill to drill the holes and the other to screw the screws in.

I trimmed off the excess butyl that was squeezed out leaving about 1/8 excess still sticking out.

I used my fingers and squished the excess into a semicircle so water would not sit on the edge of the sealant.

All of this including the silicone that I could not get off that was applied by a RV Service Center is hidden behind the cover.
Speaking of the cover, there is what appears to be a view port in it. It has always bothered me that it was opaque.

Time to do something about it.

I cut it out and epoxied a small piece of Plexiglas over the hole from the inside.

I do not know what it's purpose is but now it is clear.

So when install what you see is the bolt that hold the air color on the gas valve in place.

Anyone know why this is here?
The inside hatch cover is put back in place.

Finished, right?
Well after several heating cycles the pressure relief valve has started to drip when the temperature of the water gets close to the high point. If I relieve the pressure by turning a hot water valve on the dripping stops.
My old tank used to do this. I replaced the pressure relieve valve on that unit and it still did it.
I have had a conversation with several people and they tell me this is a common problem,. That these hot water heaters heat the water hot as there is limited quantities of the hot water. That means you can mix more cold water with it and the hot water lasts longer.
Do you have this problem.
I am thinking of installing a drain hose from the valve through the coach and to the bottom of the coach just as the defrost from the refrigerator does.
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