OK got it.
Here is what I ended up with:
Blue wire to blue wire.
Green wire to green wire.
Orange wire to brown wire.
New 12v. wire from the house battery to the white wire.
Results:
The original brown wall switch turns the water heater on with 110v. electric only.
The original low voltage switch on the monitor panel turns the water heater on with LP only.
To provide both LP & electric turn both switches on.
I have no idea why Atwood can't outline this procedure and include it with these new 4E water heaters for those of us replacing an old model 3E and would like to keep using the original switches inside the coach.
Note:
Where you connect your 12v. wire powering up the new heaters' white wire is up to you. It has to be a full time on source which is actually keeping your new 110v. relay at the rear end of your new water heater "live". Keep in mind if you grab the 12v. off a house battery and you store your rig for a spell with no connection to power, this 12v. wire to the relay will eventually draw your batteries down.
For my needs, I didn't want to start poking my wiring harnesses near the water heater compartment to find a 12v. source that would always remain hot. Because my battery box in under my entry stairs right next to the water heater I opted to take my power directly off one house battery and I added an inline fuse just to be safe and added a switch next to the water heater that shuts off this 12.v source to the heaters' white wire should I store the motorhome for a while. Just as I would use my battery disconnect switch when storing the motorhome I have one more checklist item............turn off the water heater switch in the basement.
