I was asked to comment on this. One condition was not mentioned. And it is a condition that will burn any solenoid. If the test is not verified then solenoid burnout is assured -- even 300 amp modeks.
The solenoid must not remain engaged as the engine is cranked. Check that the small ignition post goes dead as a doornail as the engine starter motor is cranked.
A five dollar fender mounted plastic body solenoid is more resistant to burnout at 700 amps rating than a hundred dollar 300 amp continuous duty solenoid. Why? Because when the engine is being cranked that so I avoid no longer utilizes 12 volts. Try 10 volts. Weak pull in, chatter and contact arcing.
Putting in a flywheel diode reverse orientation will help correctly connected solenoids live longer. More info about flywheel diodes on the web.
Verify correct connection to ignition B Instead of Ignition A
I am minus a laptop so no more posts
