Forum Discussion
landyacht318
Mar 10, 2020Explorer
Ok, I just tested the two solenoids.
One is a White Rogers 70-111224-5. Other markings on it say 91US and coil 12vdc cont. It was likely in use on my fathers boat at some point, which he got rid of several years ago. was it made in the USA in 1991??, very possible.
Unlike the photos shown in the link below the large output studs are copper colored. The 224 means ' Isolated coil, Cu NO and Ag NC contacts'
I guess NO and NC mean normally open and normally closed. Copper open Silver closed.....
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/White-Rodgers/70-111224?qs=oTUMjHQZwx0r5D6bUOoJNg%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/459/R-4003web-335062.pdf
It drew 0.9 amps at 12.43 to 14.6 volts
It drew 0.79 amps at 10.78v
It drew 0.57 amps at 9.78 volts
It drew 0.4amps at 8.69v
0.36a@7.63
0.31a@6.07
0.23a@4.8v
My voltmeter turns off at 3.4v and still the magnet stayed energized. No 'un'click.
I disconnected power to bucker, and it clicked off.
Then I reattached power at 3.5v and no click. It did not click until 7.2v, but relatively weakly. When I hit 10.17v it clicked again with more authority.
I was also measuring 0.01 to 0.1 Kohms resistance on the way down (No load), more resistance with less voltage applied, but after that reclick at 10.17v on the way back upto 14.6v, there was 0.00k ohm resistance forever after. Not sure what that was about. Could be 2 decades since this solenoid was last energized.
The Other Solenoid is also from my Dad's boat, and has two trigger terminals, and did not work at all when I put 13volts to these. when I grounded one lead on the mounting feet and touched the red alligator clip to one terminal with no result, then the other, it sparked and violently snapped, jumping an inch off the table, and was drawing 3.6 amps at 14.42v. This originally black and partially spray painted red solenoid has no markings on it other than AA JA 12v, Made in the USA. Slightly larger and heavier than the White Rogers and it too has reddish copper colored output studs. Much darker looking than silicon bronze or brass.
The 3.6 amp draw makes me believe this second solenoids is NOT a continuous duty solenoid, it only lowers to 3.4 amps at 12.8v. I did not leave it energized long enough to notice any heat build up, but I'm sure it would have to at 4 times the amp draw of the White Rogers.
I did not run it through the 10 amp voltage Bucker to see if it opened at lesser voltages or what minimum voltage it fired up at. I kind of feared frying the bucker when the coil would de-energize.
So anyway it is obvious that less voltage reaching electromagnet causes it to draw less amperage and as such the contacts are not forced together nearly as strongly as compared to 12 volts or higher. Passing partial starter motor current through it at 10v is not advisable and likely the cause of premature failure.
The sheer violence with which thi second red solenoid activated, means it likely is not continuous duty but is intermittent duty, like for a starter motor.
I actually touched the test leads to the red one's smaller contacts firs, and with no result was eagerly looking forward to disassembly. but when I clipped a test lead to the mounting feet and then touched the small contact.....SNAP!
Still tempted to drill out the rivets and have a look see.
Anybody opened one up and have Pics?
Be interesting to see the difference between continuous duty and intermittent duty contacts size and see the failed contacts.
One is a White Rogers 70-111224-5. Other markings on it say 91US and coil 12vdc cont. It was likely in use on my fathers boat at some point, which he got rid of several years ago. was it made in the USA in 1991??, very possible.
Unlike the photos shown in the link below the large output studs are copper colored. The 224 means ' Isolated coil, Cu NO and Ag NC contacts'
I guess NO and NC mean normally open and normally closed. Copper open Silver closed.....
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/White-Rodgers/70-111224?qs=oTUMjHQZwx0r5D6bUOoJNg%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/459/R-4003web-335062.pdf
It drew 0.9 amps at 12.43 to 14.6 volts
It drew 0.79 amps at 10.78v
It drew 0.57 amps at 9.78 volts
It drew 0.4amps at 8.69v
0.36a@7.63
0.31a@6.07
0.23a@4.8v
My voltmeter turns off at 3.4v and still the magnet stayed energized. No 'un'click.
I disconnected power to bucker, and it clicked off.
Then I reattached power at 3.5v and no click. It did not click until 7.2v, but relatively weakly. When I hit 10.17v it clicked again with more authority.
I was also measuring 0.01 to 0.1 Kohms resistance on the way down (No load), more resistance with less voltage applied, but after that reclick at 10.17v on the way back upto 14.6v, there was 0.00k ohm resistance forever after. Not sure what that was about. Could be 2 decades since this solenoid was last energized.
The Other Solenoid is also from my Dad's boat, and has two trigger terminals, and did not work at all when I put 13volts to these. when I grounded one lead on the mounting feet and touched the red alligator clip to one terminal with no result, then the other, it sparked and violently snapped, jumping an inch off the table, and was drawing 3.6 amps at 14.42v. This originally black and partially spray painted red solenoid has no markings on it other than AA JA 12v, Made in the USA. Slightly larger and heavier than the White Rogers and it too has reddish copper colored output studs. Much darker looking than silicon bronze or brass.
The 3.6 amp draw makes me believe this second solenoids is NOT a continuous duty solenoid, it only lowers to 3.4 amps at 12.8v. I did not leave it energized long enough to notice any heat build up, but I'm sure it would have to at 4 times the amp draw of the White Rogers.
I did not run it through the 10 amp voltage Bucker to see if it opened at lesser voltages or what minimum voltage it fired up at. I kind of feared frying the bucker when the coil would de-energize.
So anyway it is obvious that less voltage reaching electromagnet causes it to draw less amperage and as such the contacts are not forced together nearly as strongly as compared to 12 volts or higher. Passing partial starter motor current through it at 10v is not advisable and likely the cause of premature failure.
The sheer violence with which thi second red solenoid activated, means it likely is not continuous duty but is intermittent duty, like for a starter motor.
I actually touched the test leads to the red one's smaller contacts firs, and with no result was eagerly looking forward to disassembly. but when I clipped a test lead to the mounting feet and then touched the small contact.....SNAP!
Still tempted to drill out the rivets and have a look see.
Anybody opened one up and have Pics?
Be interesting to see the difference between continuous duty and intermittent duty contacts size and see the failed contacts.
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