Hot Water Heater?

I have a switch outside on the heater for propane heating. I have a switch inside on a panel for electric heating. I don't have any indicator lights for either function.

When I turn on the electric heating switch I hear a high pitch whine, followed by clicking. This repeats a few times.
When I turn on the propane switch I hear a hiss and that's it.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
In outside compartment is a rubber cover above the gas valve with 'PUSH TO RESET'

Under those buttons are resets for the Hi Temp T-stats....if tripped no Power for operation

The Left one is for the 120V AC and the electric operation
The Right one is for the 12V DC and the propane operation'

Push them both....if tripped you will feel them go in and 'reset'

Then while out there have SOMEONE ELSE turn propane switch ON while you watch/listen for:
Spark electrode firing....you should be able to SEE the spark and HEAR the click click click of the spark electrode
While the click/sparking is going on the gas valve opens for 6-8 Seconds (UNLESS a main flame lights off and engulfs electrode proving it has lit). If it doesn't light off/prove circuit board closes gas valve.
It can attempt this light off sequence 3X then it should 'lock out' stop trying turn RED Fault light on at switch panel

So try above and then post back what does happen and what doesn't happen

In outside compartment is a rubber cover above the gas valve with 'PUSH TO RESET'

Under those buttons are resets for the Hi Temp T-stats....if tripped no Power for operation

The Left one is for the 120V AC and the electric operation
The Right one is for the 12V DC and the propane operation'

Push them both....if tripped you will feel them go in and 'reset'

Then while out there have SOMEONE ELSE turn propane switch ON while you watch/listen for:
Spark electrode firing....you should be able to SEE the spark and HEAR the click click click of the spark electrode
While the click/sparking is going on the gas valve opens for 6-8 Seconds (UNLESS a main flame lights off and engulfs electrode proving it has lit). If it doesn't light off/prove circuit board closes gas valve.
It can attempt this light off sequence 3X then it should 'lock out' stop trying turn RED Fault light on at switch panel

So try above and then post back what does happen and what doesn't happen

Sorry...that's never mind on the prv, still need help with the actual heater!

Thanks

Never mind. Figured it out. Warm water came out, not hot.

Never done that before. Can you walk me through it?

If you open the pressure relief valve, is the water coming out of the valve hot?

jetcare wrote:
Did you place the bypass valves in the winterization position last fall and forget to turn them back?

No, I switched it back and the tank has water in it.

Did you place the bypass valves in the winterization position last fall and forget to turn them back?

Just tried it without the battery connected. Same result. Seems to initiate the startup sequence, hear a hissing, then nothing. No smell of gas, no spark from electrical connection that goes to what looks like a spark plug almost.

acritzer wrote:
So having a dead battery hooked up somehow overrides the converter being plugged in?

The convertor can not bring a completely dead battery over 12 volts in a short timeframe. It will need many hours to charge by a convertor that is putting out a trickle charge of about 2 amps or less. Try it without a battery connected and if that does not work ensure the battery is over 12 volts, ideally between 12.5 and 12.8 volts. If the battery immediately discharges when sitting it most likely was damaged from sitting in a discharged state to long.

On a side not you may want to install a disconnect switch to prevent the battery from discharging while sitting.