Hot water tank not working on 110 VAC

OP stated...." there are two "reset" buttons that I pressed, but still nada."

THAT is a Suburban (Atwood doesn't have RESET buttons)

Those reset buttons are for the High Temp T-stats....trip at 180*F but have to be Manually reset.
If Tripped you will feel resistance when push in on button
Left side is 120VAC for the Element
Right side s 12VDC for the propane


Suburban uses a simple 120VAC circuit
120VAC from Circuit Breaker to On/Off Switch (outside compartment lower left corner---RV Mfg might add an addtional in inside in series)
From On/Off Switch to High Temp T-stat then Normal Temp T-stat via connector wire then to element (Oval Cover Under Gas valve/burner tube)

Sometimes the High to Normal connector wire will burn into
Remove Push To Reset Cover and inspect
THis one shows burnt thru connector wire




Element....
Disconnect one wire
Voltmeter....check for continuity between the 2 terminals on eleemnt
NO continuity...element bad
Voltmeter....check for continuity between White wire termonal and element flange
YES continuity....element shorted

120VAC 1440W element
9 1/2" with a 1 1/4" thread (1 1/2" thin wall socket to R/R elemnt)

1440W element draws 12A
1500W element draws 12.5A and is readily available at most any hardware store
**1440W Suburban on line

I had some power wiring burn out near the switch at the heater so it's not always the element that does not work.

Don't know. Camper is 90 miles away.

Cajun Bill wrote:
Haven't used my camper in about 6 months, but just bought a campsite where I can place it and have access to fishing, crabbing, etc. Anyway, went to use the hot water tank so I flipped on the breaker that I normally keep off to save on electricity use. Nothing, nada, so I put it on propane and it worked find. The question is, how to I troubleshoot the electrical side? Thinking the element maybe bad, but how to test? Also, there are two "reset" buttons that I pressed, but still nada. Any assistance would be appreciated.

atwood or suburban?

My fault in two ways: my profile is incorrect and I need to update it since I sold the Sunnybrook and bought a Grey Wolf 26 ft. I don't know the mfg of the water heater because it is at my campsite. I will be going to it next Friday and will try the suggestions that have been mentioned here. Thanks to all.

DFord wrote:
Cajun Bill,
It's very helpful to include the brand and model+year of your RV when you ask for help. ...

According to his profile page he has:
2003 Sunnybrook 5th wheel, 31 ft., 2007 GMC 2500 Duramax, Allison tranny

But doesn't help on the brand of water heater.

Cajun Bill,
It's very helpful to include the brand and model+year of your RV when you ask for help. In this case the brand and model of your water heater would help give more specific answers to your question. Not all water heaters have the outside switch mentioned but those answers were offered because so little is known about your equipment. There are two different brands of water heaters - Atwood and Suburban. They both offer different features and sizes. The electric heater on my Atwood is on the backside - if that's what you've got, I hope you have easy access to the back side so you can get at it.

Dutchman beat me to it.

This guy had the water heater not working on his list for warranty work at the stealer. I asked if he had flipped the rocker switch on and got the deer in the headlight look. Sure enough we went outside so i could show doubtful Thomas what i was referring to and sure enough again the rocker was in the off mode. :R

Is your water heater double switched? Do you have a rocker arm off-on switch on the tank itself (outside) and an off-on switch inside the camper? If so, perhaps one of them is in the "off" position. Both have to be "on" for it to work.

Is the breaker inside your camper for the water heater flipped off?

If everything above checks out, perhaps your heating element is burned out. Check that you are getting the 110 AC volt first to the water heater. If so, then I'd consider the heating element next. If the electric was turned on for even 5 seconds with no water in the tank, the heating element is now burned out. Start there.

Its for this very reason they are double switched, so accidently the inside switch can be flipped on, while the main switch at the tank itself is turned off, especially after winterizing and the tank is empty.

You can check it with an OHM meter with power off. Also if you have a volt meter you can see if you are getting 120 vac at the element terminals with power on. You will only see the voltage there if the unit is trying to make hot water. It won't be there all the time. You can get the element at home depot or lowes for less than 20 bucks.