Hot water tank plug never seen one like this

If he does go for it, the amount of rocking back and forth isn't going to do it. Putting a big wrench on it will more then likely just tear the threads right out. A low impact wrench may loosen it up.

The real problem will be what would happen to spark plugs in an aluminum head in the old days. The spark plug would extend past the aluminum and rust would form. As the plug was coming out it's rusted part would destroy what was in it's path. That's where helicoils come in. Who knows maybe that is an option here to repair the damage that may occur if it all goes wrong.

aruba5er wrote:
Using an eight point socket and adapters to get down to 1/4" i'd use my small Ridgid impact driver. Not too much power but enough to probably break the bond of rust (electroli. I really think that would loosen enough to get it out. I then replaced mine with whatever hardware to but in a 3/4" ball valve. Forever done.
Anyone using a 12 point is just kidding themselves. Thats why they make 8 point.

A 12 point IS "less than ideal" but, consider this, the OP IS dealing with a aluminum tank with a steel plug..

Guess which item IS going to "give" first..

THE TANK THREADS..

The softer aluminum tank threads have a far greater risk of being damaged.

Any rust or corrosion on the threads of the steel plug will deform and possibly damage the tank threads.. That is why the OP needs to remove carefully by backing out a quarter turn then tightening it a quarter turn then reversing and backing out a little more.. Each time it SHOULD make some ground..

You simply cannot "horse" this out if you want any chance of not severely damaging the tank in the process.

At least if the OP strips the head on the plug they STILL have a "usable" water heater..

Strip or damage the threads on the tank and it is pretty much scrap unless you wish to pay a metal shop to weld a new bung on the tank.. Welders do not come cheap and finding a welder that welds aluminum is a challenge.. Not to mention the welder would need to strip the tank of the controls and shroud in order to be able to weld around the new bung (can't get enough room to weld in place).

Using an eight point socket and adapters to get down to 1/4" i'd use my small Ridgid impact driver. Not too much power but enough to probably break the bond of rust (electroli. I really think that would loosen enough to get it out. I then replaced mine with whatever hardware to but in a 3/4" ball valve. Forever done.
Anyone using a 12 point is just kidding themselves. Thats why they make 8 point.

D.E.Bishop wrote:


Heck ol' SaltiDawg ain't exactly right but damm close. On my old diesel powered boat we had a set of open end wrenches that were I believe called "crow's foot" wrenches. Instead of a handle the open end had a 1/2" drive socket to put a 1/2" drive ratchet or 1/2 drive extension in. I'll look that up and edit post in a few minutes.

Try this link.

There you go.

My first two boats (listed above) were Diesel Boats. The other three were Nuclear Fast Attack. I am familiar with Crow's Foot wrenches.

Thanks.

SaltiDawg wrote:
"You must not have a Atwood?"

lol Heck, I've never set foot in any RV. Just a dumb retired Submariner that has come to this site for 3+ years to learn about portable electrical generators... and I've learned a lot!

Sorry I butted in with the suggestion of using an open ended wrench - actually the correct tool but if there is no room, of course it was a dumb idea on my part.

If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.

You made a good suggestion and since you have not had the fun of removing a Atwood drain plug you would not have any way to know that it is in a really hard place to get to.

I am barely able to get my hand in there to start threading in the plug.. Basically holding the plug with two fingers then twisting..

As far as swapping sub stories, never had the pleasure of being on board of one, but I have multiple times toured the USS North Carolina battleship in Wilmington NC.. Pretty amazing to see what our Service men went through to keep us free!

My Dad spent several tours of duty on the USS Macon Georgia as a Machinist mate, so I really have a appreciation and soft spot for folks who gave up their time and often lives.. He taught me a bunch about DIY wrenching.

SaltiDawg wrote:
"You must not have a Atwood?"

lol Heck, I've never set foot in any RV. Just a dumb retired Submariner that has come to this site for 3+ years to learn about portable electrical generators... and I've learned a lot!

Sorry I butted in with the suggestion of using an open ended wrench - actually the correct tool but if there is no room, of course it was a dumb idea on my part.

If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.

Heck ol' SaltiDawg ain't exactly right but damm close. On my old diesel powered boat we had a set of open end wrenches that were I believe called "crow's foot" wrenches. Instead of a handle the open end had a 1/2" drive socket to put a 1/2" drive ratchet or 1/2 drive extension in. I'll look that up and edit post in a few minutes.

Try this link.

There you go.

Not sure what the goal of this mission is but if to just drain the tank; have you considered drilling the center of the plug, tapping it for 1/4" pipe and then putting either a plug in or a petcock?

Sent you a private message.

agesilaus wrote:
If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.
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Been there--done that...heh

Which Boats?

Mackerel T-1, Quillback SS-424, Pargo SSN-650, Trepang SSN-674, Bergall SSN-667, Repair Officer Frank Cable (AS-40).

If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.
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Been there--done that...heh