gcvt wrote:
MrWizard wrote:
what is your fridge and where do you get the 2.3 amp number
2.3 amps at 12.3v = 28.3 watts, 10hrs = 23 ampHrs used
this LP or electric, 28w is low power for electric, a little high for control board and lp valve use
2.3v at 120vac = 283 watts, which is what an electric heating element might use for an RV absorption fridge
NEVER run an RV fridge on battery power, except with engine running
with that kind of power draw you need a very large battery bank
a 2way or 3way fridge in a "B" should be on propane , you can use electric mode
IF you are shore power, and only when on shore power
please provide FULL info from fridge, and what mode you are using
It's a Norcold DE-351D. No propane - AC/DC only. The 2.3 amp number came from my buddy's Fluke clamp meter. The manufacturer's website says "Amps 12-24V/DC 2.8-1.6".
Checked again today at work using two separate meters. They're getting 14.0v when the engine is running. After a 3.5-4 hour drive home yesterday they're still only at 12.5/12.6v. These are brand new as of Thursday afternoon.
Nice refrigerator!. That 14 volts is just too low for not nearly long enough. I couldn't find specs for that series, but most Interstate deep cycles models (U) call for bulk and absorb voltages of 14.7
