how long?

Where ya goin w/ the 100ft ??
The other side of the hill so you can't hear your generator ?

Besides the OEM 30', its 1 50' 20 amp for me.

pianotuna wrote:
I want to get away from voltage drop at connectors.

This is why I suggest 3 longer cords vs the 4 suggested.

Hi Fred,

Thanks for the vote of confidence. So the Granger could deal with the entire 30 amp load of my OEM wiring?

Hi Smk,

Yes, I use all three. The OEM cord runs the OEM outlets. I added two outlets and power the converter from the 20 amp. The 15 amp runs the water heater and an additional outlet for an electric heater. I used standard 120 volt male and female outlets, so I can switch between the OEM wiring and "boondocking" mode in about 30 seconds.

When I'm boondocking at Rural Churches and the like I run up to three shore power cords. At the moment I use #12 in various lengths. I was hoping to rationalize the "inventory" to one 100 foot #12 and the other lengths would be used on the heavier load items. None of the cords is "freeze proof" at the moment which makes running them out quite a chore.

smkettner wrote:
Do you use these all together? I would try to cut inventory to three such as 30/70/120.

Hi,

Those lengths look fine. However I would also recommend a voltage booster.

I built one with a 30 amp 12" long cord, and a 30 amp receptacle attached with a deep box and chase nipple to attach it to the transformer.

I have high confidence in your ability to hook up and test this sort of voltage booster, and if it reduces the voltage, you will figure out what wires need to change (or will ask). . .

So Grainger part #4LEF9 is a 500 watt 12 volt transformer (rated at 40 amps at 12 volts boost). Basically you wire it up like the diagram that comes with the transformer. You take the 120 volt input, then wire the black to the input of the 12 volt, and wire the output receptacle to the white wire and the output of the 12 volt transformer, giving it a 12 volt boost.

I lived in a ranch with my RV about 300' from the main house. I had 120 volts when there was no load, but I would drop about 1 volt per amp that the RV was using. So microwave or A/C would drop the voltage by about 12 volts. My booster would bring it up to 132 volts when no load, but drops back to around 118 when the A/C is on. I would not run the refrigerator on electric while boosted, as it can damage the heating element.

The power lines from the main house to the pump house where #8 and protected at 30 amps. I also shared loads with the pump, so when it ran, the voltage could dip another 6 volts (the amp rating on the pump too). .

http://www.grainger.com/product/ACME-ELECTRIC-Buck-Boost-Trans-4LEF9?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP


Fred.

Do you use these all together? I would try to cut inventory to three such as 30/70/120.

I guess I was not clear enough.

At RV parks I'll use the 20 foot cable.

When boondocking I'll be using the #10 wire on 15 amp (standard) household type plugs.

Home Skillet wrote:
RECOMMENDED wire sizes for the 30-amp. 25 feet - #10, 50 feet - #8, 100 feet - #6.

X2

RECOMMENDED wire sizes for the 30-amp. 25 feet - #10, 50 feet - #8, 100 feet - #6.