How to securely connect??

Hi,

By all means connect the temperature sensor(s) to the battery bank. Since my batteries have both posts and screw terminals that was not an issue for me.

I believe the MS controller has battery voltage sense wires--those should go to the buss.

I am not clear on the battery bank. Is it four twelve volt jars or is it four six volt jars?

Hi Don,
Question,
What do I do with the 2 wires that are to be attached to the battery, per OEM instructions, (temp senseor wiring), one for the MS MPPT CC and the other for the Mag 2012 invertor?

If I understand these instructions correctly, they say I have to have a small wire attached to one of the battery posts etc.

Tia,
Don H

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,
Method #3 uses wires to a buss. Connect all the other wires to the buss.

Roy B,
Thanks for the info on the buss bars and I believe the fuse holder, I am planning on doing the same as you did on you install as I have an 8 and 16 ton crimper for the lugs.

What are these cable marker labels, Need info,
I like the idea of marking the cables for future info down the road,as I have a lot of cables/wiring to make up, and this electical thing is NOT my best area.... as I am getting kinda long in the tooth, as they say.

What is the Blue colored tool?

I had planned on using these type of connectors for the smartgage battery system, as I could run/attach all battery cables to one point,
see info here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310814483377

Thanks to ALL you guys, your info is greatly helping me to finish my solar install, as hunting season is just around the corner, again.

Tia,
Don H

I like all my 12V connections to use NEW heavy cables with ring terminal crimped on. I also like to use quality terminal blocks and stud connections like you see in the BLUE SEA catalogs.. I usually order all my cables from ANCOR and make my own cables.








All of my connections are to a terminal block or a stud somewhere using ring terminals. makes for easy removal and trouble shooting.

Also great for matching up cables for equalizing current flow etc...

I use one of those 8-ton hand crimpers and follow quality cable making procedures trying to keep everything new for the initial install.

This makes all the cables neat in appearance as well as great performance.




I use heat shrink adhesive tubing ends to keep moisture down around the crimp portion of the cables. If I really want to make things look very professional I can also add heat shrink cable markers before hand crimping the ends....


It sort of comes natural for me as this is what I did for a living way back then running the DOD electronics systems road trips... Like the old saying goes "they don't say hanes until I say hanes"...

Of course some guys just lay them on a concrete slab and smack them with a hammer.

Roy Ken

Hi,

It is best practise to use method #3 or #4.

Don is right - Smartgauge method #3 requires 2 busses separate from battery bank.

Use method #2, it's good enough.

You can put up to 4(?) cable lugs on one Pos battery terminal. So you have 1 from MPPT, 1 from inverter, 1 from trailer load, 3 total. Plus, much thinner wires from MPPT volt sense and temp sensor if you have it. I don't see a problem.

If you need more than 3 cables on one terminal, you can install a terminal extension (or whatever it's called) - a lug that is bolted to the terminal and lets you put more wires on it.

To avoid crowding, use as short interconnect cables as needed. This shop will make you custom length of any cable, with quality lugs and shrink tubes installed. Very low labor surcharge - I think I paid $2 per cable, on top of cable and parts cost. Their parts are local but inexpensive, cheaper and better than Amazon cr-ap.

Hi,

Method #3 uses wires to a buss. Connect all the other wires to the buss.

Any auto parts store carries battery post clamps with screw clamps for cables of generous proportions.