How To Use An Accurate Voltage Panel Gauge For Diagnostics.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yellow-0-36-LED-5-Digit-DC-0-33-000V-Digital-Voltmeter-Voltage-Meter-Car-Panel/400491902707?hash=item5d3f2d76f3:g:OYIAAOxy3HJTIAFu:rk:13:pf:0

Four wires? Twist the two blacks together then the other pair together. This meter has a three volt "other" scale. Useless for what we need so forget about four separate wire connection points. Twist the blacks for negative, the other 2 colors for positive.

Yellow is the most visible color.

5 digits would be a nice upgrade to what I currently possess.

Forgotten bay lights. Stereo system on volume turned down. Patio anything left on. Boondocking. Comparing the present to what you're used to seeing. With 5 digits there is no waiting to see numbers change, it's constant and unrelenting.

and this thick draw is on which 12v circuit, riddle us that?

Or a bit thick on draw

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Would you have seen this with your 3-1/2 digit meter?

Yes, in all conditions. Really it is not a big deal or you are a bit thin on battery.

See what's going on...pull up a chair? The discussion is how to interpret a voltmeter not a Trimetric.

A lot of folks are intimidated by trying to learn how to use voltmeter-ammeter- amp hour meter. Never mind the cost and installation labor.

This is aimed at lazy folks like me, who do not want to jump out of bed at 11:00 freezing PM to see if everything is alright. Yeah right. Freeze my A$S off. A glance at a bedside 5 digit panel meter will reveal all there is to know at that hour. The daylight grade amp hour panel meter is for daylight use.

Such a voltmeter ends 2:00 AM honey-where's-the-flashlight dramas.

CA Traveler wrote:

bpounds wrote:
But if you're using an actual battery monitor like a Trimetric, then I'm not sure why you would have a separate voltage meter at all.

Agreed. My rig came with a charger/inverter volt meter on the remote panel and a idiot light voltmeter and the dash voltmeter displays the chassis battery. None of these are connected at the battery terminals but all are perfect for the salesman.

The Trimetric came later and is connected directly to both battery bank posts.

I was thinking trailer, since that's what I have. My bad. I can see the need for a dash voltage meter, plus whatever happens to be back in the coach.

bpounds wrote:
But if you're using an actual battery monitor like a Trimetric, then I'm not sure why you would have a separate voltage meter at all.

Agreed. My rig came with a charger/inverter volt meter on the remote panel and a idiot light voltmeter and the dash voltmeter displays the chassis battery. None of these are connected at the battery terminals but all are perfect for the salesman.

The Trimetric came later and is connected directly to both battery bank posts.

I have a DVM (from Amazon) hooked up to the battery box and wired
directly to the batteries. I walk past it several times per day
while I'm camping and a quick glance shows what is going on.

If by mid-afternoon the voltage is > 13.0, I know the solar is working
and I have enough for the evening. If the voltage is 12.8 or below
then I may have to top up the batteries with the generator.

I have 1 solar panel hooked up during storage (with the battery
disconnected from the TT) and as long as I see > 12.8 then I know
that the batteries are topped for the next time I want to go camping.