Forum Discussion
wwest
Jun 18, 2014Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
I don't think the 750w inverter nor the 1000w one will do the job as described. eg, the PD converter has a power factor of 0.7 which makes its VA draw on the inverter near or over 1000.
1000VA ONLY at full load, 55A (maximum)charging rate to house battery = ~65A input current to the inverter. Additional loads on the PD should be minimal when underway.
Meanwhile the alternator has to be able to run the inverter and the vehicle and there are limits to that. I tried a version of doing that charging method and posted about it some time ago.
In my case I powered a 600w Vector 35a charger from a 1000w MSW inverter (no advantage to have PSW for this job) that worked ok, but the limit was in the truck.
The inverter was connected to the truck's battery with short fat wires so that was ok.
The truck engine running (in idle--revving made no difference with this truck)
That seems not just improbable but practically impossible.
As the engine revs rise the amperage production capability of the alternator will rise accordingly. Unless this particular alternator could produce maximum current output (90A?) at or near idle and that maximum current was somehow being "used" at the time. Both highly unlikely.
Or was the chassis battery (and house?) fully, DEEPLY, discharged during your test?
was able to keep the truck's voltage (dash meter) needle pointing up at 14v as long as the inverter load was not too much.
But what was the total of other loads on the chassis alternator/VR system>
When I tried to increase the inverter load by adding a second Vector charger but set to less than 35a at the 20a, I found the inverter could handle it (300w at 20a vs 600w at 35a so 900w total) but now the truck's voltage fell off, needle sagging down to the left. 10a more ok needle stays up quivering like it is on the verge of sagging down to the left again. So that is the limit. Got to keep the truck's voltage holding at 14v. (It helped when I shut off the truck's climate control too!)
So the OP set-up could work given that:
-the chosen inverter is high enough in watts to supply the VA draw of the PD converter, and
-The vehicle's 12v supply will be 'strong' enough to run the inverter plus the vehicles own requirements to hold its voltage at 14v.
Most MSW inverters do not shut down until the input voltage drops to <10.5volts
I know you can do better connecting from the alternator instead of the battery, so the OP method could be better than what I did for that part.
The factory wiring between the alternator and chassis battery will not be critical at the maximum charging rate to the battery.
PS: What was (is?) your alternator output rating?
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