IDEA...charging house battery(set) underway.
It seems that the chassis alternator/VR system will often not fully charge the house battery(set) due to voltage drop between the two, or overcharge, boil the electrolyte away, for a deeply discharged...
Forum Discussion
BFL13 wrote:
Yes most of the threads about this stress the need to run your wires from the alternator itself and not from the vehicle battery if you want decent amps and also to bypass the voltage regulator IIRC also something about temperature under the hood knocking truck voltage down.
That's why I mentioned in my initial reply that the OP's inverter/truck connection might allow for a higher truck limit than what I got. There will still be a limit.
I forgot to mention in my case, the inverter had to be hanging outside the engine compartment in cooler air. It overheated sitting up near the battery with the hood up. Ok for doing it when parked. No idea where you could mount the inverter close to the engine area for going down the road like the OP wants.
The gen in the back of the truck thing sort of worked when I tried that out. Every so often the Honda would quit. Speculation in a thread about that was vortex air messing up the Honda air intake, also bumps disturbing the oil level, whatever. I had to pull over and restart the Honda when it happened--or rather when I noticed it had stopped, which was who knows how long after it did stop.
Most RV's have pretty heavy guage cable from the chassis battery to the isolator or relay and then to the house battery(set). Good place to mount the inverter.
