info on surge protectors

Bobbo wrote:

A bonding plug on the Honda generator will fix that right up. About $2 in parts at any big box hardware store.

Buy a 3 prong plug and about 2 inches of wire. Open the plug and wire the NEUTRAL and GROUND pins together. DO NOT HOOK ANYTHING TO THE HOT PIN. Plug that into an outlet on the generator, and the floating NEUTRAL problem with Progressive units is fixed.

You don't have to run the risk of bypassing any of the Progressive unit's safety tests by using the bypass switch.

I have done that using one 2000i. Now if I parallel two 2000i's together do I need a bonding plug for each generator?

Tequila wrote:
Only concern I have with progressive (i have a built in surge guard) is using Honda 2000 with a built in model. Since the progressive will block an open ground (Surge guard will not) i am thinking it will not let the output from a Honda 2000 through. They have an floating ground.

A bonding plug on the Honda generator will fix that right up. About $2 in parts at any big box hardware store.

Buy a 3 prong plug and about 2 inches of wire. Open the plug and wire the NEUTRAL and GROUND pins together. DO NOT HOOK ANYTHING TO THE HOT PIN. Plug that into an outlet on the generator, and the floating NEUTRAL problem with Progressive units is fixed.

You don't have to run the risk of bypassing any of the Progressive unit's safety tests by using the bypass switch.

Joel_T wrote:
The hardwired progressive has a bypass switch for that open ground fault problem but the surge protection still works. The pedestal plug in style can't bypass though.

my portable Surge Protector has a bypass,
bumpy

The hardwired progressive has a bypass switch for that open ground fault problem but the surge protection still works. The pedestal plug in style can't bypass though.

Only concern I have with progressive (i have a built in surge guard) is using Honda 2000 with a built in model. Since the progressive will block an open ground (Surge guard will not) i am thinking it will not let the output from a Honda 2000 through. They have an floating ground.

I work as a support engineer for a major Surge Protector / UPS company that focuses on computer protection. We make everything from little desktop UPS units & powerstrips to whole data centers solutions. Unfortunately we don't make any stand alone 30 amp surge products. Looking at my options for RV type products I am seeing an awful lot of snake oil solutions and very little that I have confidence in. None of the products I have seen so far are UL listed and none of them appear to publish their let through voltage. You can very cheaply engineer a product to have a very high Joule rating, but it doesn't mean that its necessarily a good surge protector. Let through voltage is the only number that really means anything, and it is what UL uses to determine adequate surge protection. It determines the maximum amount of voltage that could be let through during a large surge. The usual test is a 6000v surge and you would want a maximum of 330v to be able to make it through. Better surge protectors would allow less, but 330v is considered adequate for most applications.

Bumpyroad wrote:

09FLSTC wrote:




or For most problems

this is one of those $90 specials that nobody should waste their money on. one should have a multi-function surge protector, JMHO
bumpy

Possible reverse polarity, open neutral, open ground and anybody near electrical storms would really benefit from this. I have the upgrade but it would be the minimum coverage I would consider.

09FLSTC wrote:




or For most problems

this is one of those $90 specials that nobody should waste their money on. one should have a multi-function surge protector, JMHO
bumpy

DutchmenSport wrote:
I had a Surge Guard for a little over a year. Used it 24x7. No issues. But I have no clue how many times it might have taken "hits". Then early this Summer, went camping, plugged it in and ... nothing! Dead. Since it was over a year old it was out of warranty. I started looking a Progressive.

Progressive was a bit cheaper, but also came with a life-time warranty. I've had it plugged in 24x7 now also. So far, no issues.

Mine does not have all the advanced read-outs. I don't need all that stuff, and actually don't care. If the Progressive protector kicks off, I know there is a problem at the campground. I'll call the park service to check out the electric post.

I suggest getting the Progressive, after having had both now.

Totally agree EMS full protection

or For most problems

The exact same thing that a hundred million hookups did before these contraptions came to market. Having a go, no-go protective device is an advance however there was life before surge guard, smart chargers, slideouts, AGM batteries and penicillin.

I will offer this: it is my most humble respectful opinion that today's RV's have about a hundred times the malfunctions and repair expenses as rigs did thirty years ago.

I started RV'ing to relax and enjoy myself in an environment several times that afforded by tent camping. Today's RVer seems to be in a perpetual race to purchase incredibly complicated rigs then keep adding stuff until a trip seems guaranteed to utterly malfunction and fall flat on it's face

But I have far less tolerance and patience than most.