Forum Discussion

landyacht318's avatar
landyacht318
Explorer
Aug 30, 2014

Insert bare stranded wire, tighten screw.

I really dislike these types of connections.

In my experience the set screw needs to be retightened often, the copper gets all oxidized, the screws can loosen up and the wires fall out.

Yesterday I awoke glanced at my battery monitor and saw +323.6 amps. Not again! Argggghhhhhh!


Just pushing on the twisted pair wire from the shunt returned the amps to 3.4 where they should be, but of course Amps from full was thrown out until I reset the monitor.

After Sundown I removed the IPN Pro Remote, and did not have to unscrew the twisted pair wire coming from the Shunt, it just fell out.

I cut off the brown copper, restripped the wire and tinned it, then filed it down into a square that barely fit into the receptacles. I made it a bit dovetailed so that it cannot easily pull out. I used some Dielectric grease to help seal the connection, then re zeroed the meter after putting both twisted pair wires on the same screw on the Shunt.

The set screw device on the circuit board seems so fragile I understand why I did not really tighten the set screws so much the last time, and this time held the body of it with needle nose pliers while torquing the screws fairly tightly on the tinned wire.

I guess vibrations from my compressor fridge nearby could have contributed to or been the cause of the screws loosening. I did not want to try any loctite to keep them from loosening, and hope these measures I've taken prove to be lasting.

I'm not sure of an easy better way to attach small wires to circuit boards for the end user, but these set screw wire clamps are halfassery at its finest
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    I agree with the tin man... And somewhere I have a piece of paper that says I know how to do that (Certificate, electronics technology, Kellogg Community College).

    Spent part of the last two days fixing a cordless drill/driver.. New batteries (got those yesterday) and a bad connection (Fixed today) works good now.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    All of my 4AWG cable connections use the inexpensive 8-ton Hand Crimper tool and appropriate ring terminals...


    This solved all of the poor connections for me...

    Everything I use is bolted together...



    Cable end are dressed properly using adhesive heat shrink tubing keeping everything away from the elements..


    I also sometimes ID the important cabling with heat shrink markers using a KROY Cable Marker tool...


    I use BLUE SEA BATTERY SWITCHES, BUS BARS, FUSE BLOCKS etc components with all my battery projects where ring terminals are used for the connections...




    Everything is sealed against the weather and battery vent gases keeping all of the connections in great shape... I do the same with my FRAME GROUNDs as well...

    NOTE: I do the same type of things with the smaller DC cables as well...

    Did it this for years in my working years so it just comes natural to do it now for all of my 12VDC Battery Projects

    Roy Ken
  • I have found, that with stranded wire, you tighten as tight as you can, then wait a few minutes and re-tighten. You will be surprised how much the 2nd torquing will yield. The stranded wire has time to collapse and then the 2nd try completes the job and they do not come loose. Using Locktite is NOT a good idea. With Locktite you will have the set screw glued at the set spot, then when the wires collapse, the screw will then be loose, since you will have to tighten it again. It is NOT the screw coming loose(backing off), it is the wire strands collapsing that causes the looseness. Doug
  • Not sure I would use loktite on electrical type screws but I do tin stranded wire. Seems to do a better job of holding wire in place.

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