I am looking to install the New InetiPower 60Amp Charge Controller close to batteries as that is best for faster charging. I am wondering about taking out old charge controller under stove. Can I just disconnect all wires and remove it? I was thinking that it is needed to power 12V system when we have hookups? Then I wondering about how we charge batteries when hooked up to shore power, with relocated Charge Controller? Second Cord just to the Converter? Or how I might grab power that is part of the system when we are hooked up.At the end of the day my goal is to:1) Relocate Charge Controller location2) be able to plug RV into Shore power and have batteries getting charged. 3) be able to plug RV main Plug into Champion Generator and have batteries getting charged. 4) Have New Charge Controller close to batter bank in front Storage (4 6v Trojans)

It seems like you are a bit confused. If you are replacing the converter (which it sounds like) it should go back in the same place the old one was or you are going to have a wiring nightmare.

Tommygun714From your profile, I get the impression that your 5er. is a 2018 model. What is wrong with the charger that is in it? :hIf you want a new charger controller I would say just remove the one that's there and replace it in the same location. :S Get what you want but I would say inho, put it back where it's located. Least amount of work and wiring. :W

Boon Docker wrote:It seems like you are a bit confused. If you are replacing the converter (which it sounds like) it should go back in the same place the old one was or you are going to have a wiring nightmare.What he said x 2

tommygun714 wrote:4) Have New Charge Controller close to batter bank in front Storage (4 6v Trojans)I recommend the PD9280-C 14.8Plan on using #4 wire.http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-wire/marine-battery-cable/4-awg-gauge-marine-battery-cable

PatrickA51 wrote:Boon Docker wrote:It seems like you are a bit confused. If you are replacing the converter (which it sounds like) it should go back in the same place the old one was or you are going to have a wiring nightmare.What he said x 2Hi,I am installing 4 6v Trojan t105 batteries, solar, and inverter.I see over and over on installs for the Charge Converter that it is best to install very close to battery bank with larger wire than on existing. Also read that Stock WFCO will take all day on generator to charge the 4 batt bank as opposed to 2 hours on Generator. Fan noise in living area and other more intelligent charging on $600 battery set are just a few added benefits. Article and video doesn't address removing old, and that is my main question. Can I just take out, Put new one close to batteries and then - Use thick Gage short run to charge batteries and......then run low voltage back - long run to the Control panel to where I removed Old 12v wires? Has anyone done this. So many videos on solar installs showing relocated Power Converters? Here is one on many articles: How I Installed the INTELI-POWER ConverterFound here: http://www.loveyourrv.com/installing-the-inteli-power-pd9260-for-improved-rv-battery-charging/ I decided to install the new converter in our fifth wheels front storage compartment as close to the battery bank as possible. This accomplished 2 important things for me. One it reduces the power losses due to wiring, my old converter is under the stove and about 20 feet of wire away. Two, we don’t have to hear the cooling fan noise. The OEM converters fan is most annoying since it is located in our living area. When using the new converter, I’ll plug it into my generator using an extension cord run out of the front compartment. Down the road, I plan to add an outside receptacle for convenience."Testing Out the New Battery ChargerI was able to test out my new converter charger pretty quickly. Soon after installing it our desert boondocking skies became cloudy and a rain storm moved in. The next morning it was still socked in and our battery bank was pretty depleted. I tried charging the batteries with the old converter versus the new INTELI-POWER on both auto and manual boost mode. The old converter was charging at 13.4 volts and 10.8 amps. The new PD9260CV converter charged at 13.6 volts and 27.6 amps, and then when manual boost was activated I saw 14.4 volts at over 40 amps! I was impressed. This will mean much-reduced generator run time when charging."Here is another: "All inverters need to be installed as close to the battery bank as possible without being inside with the batteries. Make sure all wiring is large enough for the inverter load and protected by fuses or breakers."Sound here: http://mobilehomesteading.com/category/rv-tips/Go to number #8

Install New Charge Controller close to batteries

Itinerant1
Explorer
Mar 17, 2018
BFL13 wrote:

Make sure the gen has enough VA to run the charger. A 2000w inverter gen is about maxed out with about a 70a non-PF corrected charger. The PD 80 amper is non-PF corrected. Some say they have run an 80 amp PD with a Honda 2000. I don't know how!

Appears the 2000w should handle it.

Specs on the Honda 2000i
AC Output: 120V 2000W max.(16.7A)
1600W rated (13.3A)
Receptacles: 20A 125V Duplex

Specs for the PD9180A
Input: 105-130 VAC, 1,300 Watts
Note: Requires 20 amp rated outlet
Output: 13.6 VDC, 80 Amps
BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 17, 2018
Itinerant1 wrote:
BFL13 wrote:

Make sure the gen has enough VA to run the charger. A 2000w inverter gen is about maxed out with about a 70a non-PF corrected charger. The PD 80 amper is non-PF corrected. Some say they have run an 80 amp PD with a Honda 2000. I don't know how!

Appears the 2000w should handle it.

Specs on the Honda 2000i
AC Output: 120V 2000W max.(16.7A)
1600W rated (13.3A)
Receptacles: 20A 125V Duplex

Specs for the PD9180A
Input: 105-130 VAC, 1,300 Watts
Note: Requires 20 amp rated outlet
Output: 13.6 VDC, 80 Amps

Here we go again!!!! :(

The PD converter has a PF of 0.7, so that "1300w" is actually 1857 VA required from the 120v power supply. Which is why they want a 20a plug in with 12 wire for it.

The Honda "2000" has a continuous rating of 1600VA (not "watts")
time2roll
Nomad
Mar 17, 2018
Honda 2000va should power an 1857va device just fine.
Honda is good for 30 minutes and by then the PD is tapering amps anyway.

May need 1857va apparent power however the amps will be based on the 1300 watts actual power.
BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 17, 2018
time2roll wrote:
Honda 2000va should power an 1857va device just fine.
Honda is good for 30 minutes and by then the PD is tapering amps anyway.

May need 1857va apparent power however the amps will be based on the 1300 watts actual power.

Honda "2000" is not 2000VA it is rated at 1600VA and also at 13.3a (120v) where 13.3 x 120 = 1596

Kill-A- Watt readings with a non-PF corrected 75amper doing 75 amps (constant) into a battery with voltage at 14.08 (and rising) when the charger is set to 14.8v.

123.5v, 13.64a, 1241w, PF 0.73, 1693VA. DC Output 75 x 14.08 = 1056w and input 1241w = 85% efficiency. (Don't know why the VA is a tad higher reading than V x A.)

An 80 amper scaled up would be 80/75 x 1690 = 1802

It is true that some gens can initially run more than their continuous ratings. How long that would have to last depends on the charging amps wrt the AH capacity of the bank and its initial SOC. Half an hour would be with a small battery bank like a pair of 6s or a pair of 12s starting at 50%. Four batteries would be an hour in Bulk with a 70 amp charger.

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