letup27 wrote:
https://tops-stars.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/wiring-diagram-for-rv-travel-trailer-wiring-diagram-inspiring-car-pertaining-to-rv-inverter-wiring-diagram.jpg
Hope you can open the image. If theres a charger and ats in the inverter should I disconnect my existing one? As I said the existing battery position is running to the disconnect, brake and power jack. Should I attach the positive wire to the new one running to the inverter and should it be before the fuse?
The emergency breakaway positive wire from the pull switch to the battery is not to be fused and should go direct, not via another wire that might be fused.
Your battery to DC fuse panel wire stays as is, not to the inverter pos input then on to the DC panel. Why do that? Your pos wires now on the battery for the slides and jacks also stay as is.
You fuse the fat pos wire for the inverter/charger's input(for inverter)/output(for charger) near the battery pos post. Fuse size in amps per installation instructions.
IMO you should keep your converter as is too so you can use it instead of the charger in the inverter/charger at times. The inverter charger has to be connected and on with the battery bank to operate it. You can't run the charger part when there is no battery like you can with a converter to still get 12v when your batteries are out for servicing or whatever.
Not clear, but sounds like your inverter will be too far from the battery bank to prevent voltage drop enough so you can run the MW or other high amp appliances even with fat wire. Also no word on the size of the battery bank, which needs to be about 400AH or so to do any good.
