insulating the floor

You have 'Cloth drawers" ... and can't make them smaller? Not sure I understand that statement.

But, if it were me, I'd take out the drawers, get new one's made that clear the floor, and install half-inch insulation board on the floor, then cover it with carpet or laminate flooring.

Linoleum has no insulation value - so is worthless for floor covering.

No good way to insulate under the vehicle without hazards like muffler heat, etc. Insulating the floor will lose an inch, but gain everything you need and in the long run, a better safer way to save heat.

Hi,

If the makers had run the duct work below the floor instead of cheaping out it sure would have made things better.

I wonder if I cut a hole and added a fan to "push" air into the space if it would make any difference at all.

Hi Steve,

The reason I don't wish to mess with the floor from inside is that the two largest storage drawers are cloth covered and actually rub on the existing floor. If they were wood, I could easily have them cut. But with cloth it will be a very nasty project.

That makes it difficult to add any thickness to the flooring.

I do try to have electric hookups--but it often might be a single 15 amp circuit. There would be nothing more frustrating that having heated flooring--and no energy to run it. I wonder if anyone makes 12 volt mats?

SteveAE wrote:
Don,

Reflecting coatings will only reduce radiated heat transfer. I doubt that you have much of that type of heat loss under the floor in the winter. It may reduce heat gain in the summer when parked or traveling over asphalt, but I doubt you will be able to detect much of a change. White will work almost as well as metallic.

Since (I understand) you usually have electric hookups in the winter, why not put an electric heating mat under your existing flooring?
Electric Floor Heating Mats
The mats are ~ 1/8" thick and use ~ 12 watts per sq. ft. They won't change the heat loss through the floor (that takes insulation), but they will make your toes smile.

Steve

Don,

Reflecting coatings will only reduce radiated heat transfer. I doubt that you have much of that type of heat loss under the floor in the winter. It may reduce heat gain in the summer when parked or traveling over asphalt, but I doubt you will be able to detect much of a change. White will work almost as well as metallic.

Since (I understand) you usually have electric hookups in the winter, why not put an electric heating mat under your existing flooring?
Electric Floor Heating Mats
The mats are ~ 1/8" thick and use ~ 12 watts per sq. ft. They won't change the heat loss through the floor (that takes insulation), but they will make your toes smile.

Steve

Hi westend,

There is some fiberglass insulation in the floor. But it seems to work badly.

Yes I am considering spray on insulation but finding someone who has done it to a class C is the issue. I do not wish to create problems for myself.

I am also wondering if I simply coated the bottom with aluminum spray paint if it would cut down on heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter.

How is the floor built, is it joists with decking and insulation under the floor decking? No insulation? Is it composite (wood-foam sandwich)?

ISTR you had asked previously about foam sprayed on the undercarriage? That would probably be the most efficient way to get a good job done. If you have heat issues with the exhaust, I would assume some shields could be added to accommodate that. Lacking the time, expense, or trust for spraying, my second choice would be to install rigid foam on any areas that were away from the exhaust. If I felt it was necessary to make the foam to undercarriage joint sealed beyond gluing and fasteners (I don't), a guy could overlay it with aluminum sheet and seal the sheets.

Don,

It would be a project and a half, but could your raise the floor on the inside of your rig? If you could, then besides insulation,you could also have in-floor heating.

Only other solution I can think of would be to put flexible heating elements under a rug (and change your drawers so you could still open them).

Steve

Hi Ivylog,

Thanks--fire or over heating is a big concern.

There are already heat shields in place. After driving for several hours the floor takes hours to cool off in the summer time.

What ever insulation I do end up with must be fire proof.

JiminDenver,

I'm concerned about moisture build up, too.

I suppose I could simply cover the bottom in tin, or other metal. I have a feeling that will be expensive.

Having added rigid foam between the exhaust and the floor of a burb... DO NOT DO IT as it caught on fire and made for some excitement. Got so hot that the horse hair insulation between the floor and the rubber mat caught on fire too which was harder to put out. A metal reflector between the floor and the exhaust is what I learned the almost really hard way. Doubt your exhaust is as close as on a burb so some insulation and a metal reflector MIGHT be OK.

reducing the heat loss to the point that your feet are not cold is going to have a big effect on the amount of heat needed to keep the coach warm.

Don
As always my solution will be in the simple arena. I would suggest using padded carpet squares that could be lifted when you need to open the drawers and then set back down again.

Adding foam under will help but I'd worry about moisture between the foam and the bottom of the rig.