inverter/charger

It's not really Rubiks Cube....I will describe a 'pass-thru' type inverter-charger (with ATS)...Simply put:

1) The battery will have dedicated cables connected to the D.C. side of the inverter. there should be an in-line fuse in the (+) positive cable. Cables should be as short as practical and of adequate size (follow mfg guidelines for cable & fuse size). Note, to minimize/avoid annoying low voltage alarms (thus inverter shutdowns), I'd recommend exceeding the mfg cable size recommendations by at least one size...When considering cable lengths, this should be understood as 'round trip' ( + & - batt to inverter).

2) Coach shore power cable gets 'severed' (inside coach, where best practical...) and reconnected as follows:

a) Pedestal connect (male) side of cable, wired to Inverter AC input.

b) Inverter's AC output now re-connects to remaining end of cable (leading to coach main panel). Note, now the inverter essentially becomes a 'wide spot' in the line!!

c) Ground wire from inverter goes to coach chassis (size this wire PER mfg instructions).

d) Once connected (optional), you can then shut off breaker (at main panel) to the factory charger and let the inverter-charger take over, or (visa-versa) leave the inverters charger section off. No need to run both chargers.

At this point, you're good to go and the inverter's ATS (pass-thru feature) will sense the presence (or lack of) shore power and switch automatically (defaults to presence of shore power)...

Points to remember however,

a) When running the refer on LPG and then you turn on the inverter, some refers will automatically switch to 115v AC and rapidly run down your batteries.

b) As stated above, be sure and shut off the factory charger breaker, else it will draw from the inverter in an attempt to charge the batteries (a nasty 'round robin' affair)...

c) IF you like, you also have the option of adding sub-panel. A sub-panel is used to divorce certain appliances (of your choosing, i.e. air cond, refer, converter-charger, hot water heater, etc) from the inverters 115v output. This makes it all passive and fool proof...

Best Regards,
3 tons

Well, first an "inverter/charger" is what I call either an INLINE inverter or a UPS depending on basically the size of the heat sink and the size of the battery (Inverter/Chargers have larger both).

Some come with outlets, some do not,, Some "Customer's choice" Again size is often a factor here. 300-1000 usually has an outlet, above that we go choice for a while, 3000 and up usually has terminals and you hook up a sub panel.

How to make them so they switch automatically to/from battery/shore power


Shore--Main breaker box (Branch)-->-Inverter/converter->-Sub panel->-Loads

NOTEL sub panel may be built in (usually two circuits)

How it works,,, AN INTERNAL transfer switch does the magic, IF shore power is present and of acceptable quality, it goes into "Pass Through" mode, and sends shore power out the output line to the sub panel (or internal breakers) and loads.

If shore power is NOT acceptable (Absent, low voltage, high voltage, high/low frequency, or other issue) it shuts off shore power and starts eathing battery power.

Likewise if shore power is present it CHARGES the batteries.

All automatically via internal switches.

NOTE: SHORE can also be GENERATOR power.

My inverter/charger has a set of AC input AC output and DC + & - terminals. add in 2 grounds and that is 8 wires. The DC are huge (I have a 3kw 6kw surge unit) 4/0, the AC side is 6 guage.

joe0508 wrote:

Tom/Barb wrote:
You best get some directions with it. :)

That answer dosent really help me much but thanks for the effort.

You best download a manual FIRST before attempting any of this.

There are some good wiring diagrams on the web.
Suggest you get an electrician to help you.
You may need an AC power distribution panel.
The mfg should have a good diagram and recommended procedure.

Hi,

Are you asking for the easy to install inverter, and a suggestion for a brand and type?

I think that you will find it easy to wire up a 1,000 watt inverter/charger, with built in transfer switch. Mine has a remote control, so that I can change charge rates, turn it on and off remotely, and monitor the incoming and outgoing voltage.

Wiring is really simple. At first, I had the main incoming power - 30 amps at 120 volts, go into the inverter, then out to the power panel. I installed some #10-3 romex with ground from my power panel to the inverter location. With the incoming (from generator/shore power transfer switch) to the input of the inverter, then output going to the 30 amp main breaker in my RV.

Later I wired it to run from a single 20 amp breaker in my RV to power a couple of 120 volt receptacle circuits. Now the 20 amp breaker goes to the inverter input, while output is connected to receptacles that power the TV set, alarm clock in the back of the RV, and refrigerator receptacle, among most of the other receptacles, including the Microwave.

Now I can run the A/C from shore power, and with the 20 amp breaker feeding the inverter off, I can run the TV and other loads from the inverter and solar power, reducing my power bill.

If you have a 50 amp power panel in your RV, you might want to use a 20 amp breaker, and then use the inverter to power the loads that have receptacles on it. This is fairly straightforward wiring. If you do not understand it, I suggest getting a book and learn all about electricity, or get someone else to wire it for you.

The inverter wiring is VERY easy. Just two DC wires. The 4 A/C wires are 2 input and 2 output. So a total of 6 wires that carry electricity. A couple more grounds, and that is it. Normally a #4 wire from the frame of the inverter to the frame of the RV.

Fred.

If you have not already purchased consider getting separate converter and inverter. If it fails you have both functions, well not functioning.

This diagram may help understand the basic principle of total system.
http://www.metrotrekkers.org/utility/electrical.htm

More reading material here for Inverter and I see a Install Manual pdf you can download for more research on this website.
http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/freedom-sw-2000.aspx

Inverter chargers are usually hardwired on both AC and DC. When 120V is present on the AC side, the included transfer switch closes and it powers the included charger to charge the 12V batteries.

Depends on what you buy. The high end units simply go into charge mode when they detect AC on the input.