I'm looking to add a PSW inverter to my TT, I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of 3KW. I don't necessarily need something perhaps that big however I'm thinking if I wanted to add battery capacity, this part I would not have to do again. Kind'a do it once and be done. I'm wondering if I could get help in directing me on how would be best to wire it? I'm wanting to isolate my converter when I have the inverter "on." I know it is recomended to have the inverter as close to the batteries as possible (for the current draw on 12V DC vs. 120 VAC) however I am thinking of running heavy wire and place the inverter in the enclosure with the connverter. I would like to somehow have a single switch as a cut-out (if that is possible) so as to "turn off the conver" as the inverter is switched on (a single throw switch that does both?). Is there a way to do what I'm looking for? Any help would be much appreciated.The TT has two 6V deep cycle marine batteries right now. The idea is to have all outlets energized through the inverter realizing that my "power supply" is limitted by the number of amphours available with the batteries I have on board.

Running the microwave, Keurig or other high wattage appliance from the battery bank would be the reason for wanting a 3kW inverter. 2kW will handle those items easily and save you a few bucks. If you're not planning on running anything like that, a 300W inverter will run most anything. Two 6V's is light for a 2kW inverter let alone a 3kW. Most here have four 6V's minimum.

E&J push'n wind wrote:I would like to somehow have a single switch as a cut-out (if that is possible) so as to "turn off the conver" as the inverter is switched on (a single throw switch that does both?). Is there a way to do what I'm looking for?If you buy an I/C it's all done automatically.If you're sinking big bux into a unit, and preparing for heavy use, an IC has a much better charger than your converter. That way, you really are done.

How may feet will you be from the battery? You will need minimum 4/0 wire about the size of a garden hose. Four batteries minimum, six+ preferred for 3000 watts.Combo unit is fine or wire the inverter to provide power after the converter so that you have no issues.

E&J push'n wind wrote:...The TT has two 6V deep cycle marine batteries right now. The idea is to have all outlets energized through the inverter realizing that my "power supply" is limitted by the number of amphours available with the batteries I have on board.An alternative is to just plug your shore power cable into the inverter and cut the power to the converter. This is what we do. I isolated my converter 120V AC input power to its own AC breaker and I just flip that breaker off when I'm going to plug into the inverter. All outlets are energized when running off the inverter. Fridge and water heater are set to propane. Not all inverters will allow this though, the first one I tried it with (Samlex MSW) would shut down fault immediately if I plugged my shore power cable into it. It said in the manual to not use it to energize an AC panel.

They all say not to run an AC panel or words to that effect. You can still do the shore power cord trick though. They must be referring to something else, maybe that bonded stick house thing. Whatever. There must have been some other "issue" overloading it at the time why it didn't work in the RV.

Inverter/Converter help? | Good Sam Community

mena661
Explorer
Jan 23, 2015
Running the microwave, Keurig or other high wattage appliance from the battery bank would be the reason for wanting a 3kW inverter. 2kW will handle those items easily and save you a few bucks. If you're not planning on running anything like that, a 300W inverter will run most anything. Two 6V's is light for a 2kW inverter let alone a 3kW. Most here have four 6V's minimum.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jan 23, 2015
E&J push'n wind wrote:
I would like to somehow have a single switch as a cut-out (if that is possible) so as to "turn off the conver" as the inverter is switched on (a single throw switch that does both?). Is there a way to do what I'm looking for?
If you buy an I/C it's all done automatically.

If you're sinking big bux into a unit, and preparing for heavy use, an IC has a much better charger than your converter. That way, you really are done.
time2roll
Nomad
Jan 23, 2015
How may feet will you be from the battery? You will need minimum 4/0 wire about the size of a garden hose. Four batteries minimum, six+ preferred for 3000 watts.

Combo unit is fine or wire the inverter to provide power after the converter so that you have no issues.
ewarnerusa
Nomad
Jan 23, 2015
E&J push'n wind wrote:
...The TT has two 6V deep cycle marine batteries right now. The idea is to have all outlets energized through the inverter realizing that my "power supply" is limitted by the number of amphours available with the batteries I have on board.

An alternative is to just plug your shore power cable into the inverter and cut the power to the converter. This is what we do. I isolated my converter 120V AC input power to its own AC breaker and I just flip that breaker off when I'm going to plug into the inverter. All outlets are energized when running off the inverter. Fridge and water heater are set to propane. Not all inverters will allow this though, the first one I tried it with (Samlex MSW) would shut down fault immediately if I plugged my shore power cable into it. It said in the manual to not use it to energize an AC panel.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jan 23, 2015
They all say not to run an AC panel or words to that effect. You can still do the shore power cord trick though. They must be referring to something else, maybe that bonded stick house thing. Whatever.

There must have been some other "issue" overloading it at the time why it didn't work in the RV.
ewarnerusa
Nomad
Jan 23, 2015
There was no load on it when it faulted. I do believe that others mentioned the bonded neutral something something that might trip up an inverter when I asked about on these forums. All other inverters I have used work this way, just that Samlex one didn't. And the Samlex one worked for directly powering things, just not through the shore power cable route. My solution was to get a different inverter since I decided I need PSW.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jan 23, 2015
ewarnerusa wrote:
There was no load on it when it faulted. I do believe that others mentioned the bonded neutral something something that might trip up an inverter when I asked about on these forums. All other inverters I have used work this way, just that Samlex one didn't. And the Samlex one worked for directly powering things, just not through the shore power cable route. My solution was to get a different inverter since I decided I need PSW.

My MSW Vector 2000w and 1000w PSW Xantrex inverters both say not to run an AC dist with them but have no trouble running an RV "whole house"

Obviously it doesn't matter now, but IMO there must have been some "issue" other than that at the time. If there was no load then it must have been a connection issue that you didn't catch? Doesn't matter now anyway.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jan 23, 2015
Answering the question regarding a "switch"

A double-pole On-On switch allows switching both the leg and neutral to each device. You should look for a switch rated 25 amperes. An on-on switch toggle has two positions. Up or down. No middle position (which in other switches would be the "off" position.
E_J_push_n_wind
Explorer
Jan 24, 2015
2oldman wrote:
E&J push'n wind wrote:
I would like to somehow have a single switch as a cut-out (if that is possible) so as to "turn off the conver" as the inverter is switched on (a single throw switch that does both?). Is there a way to do what I'm looking for?
If you buy an I/C it's all done automatically.

If you're sinking big bux into a unit, and preparing for heavy use, an IC has a much better charger than your converter. That way, you really are done.

By I/C I take it that would be and Inverter/Converter, all in one?
E_J_push_n_wind
Explorer
Jan 24, 2015
smkettner wrote:
How may feet will you be from the battery? You will need minimum 4/0 wire about the size of a garden hose. Four batteries minimum, six+ preferred for 3000 watts.

Combo unit is fine or wire the inverter to provide power after the converter so that you have no issues.

My batteries are in the typical place on the tongue. The distance guestimated would be 15' to 20' or so. I did a cursory search for 100 amps at a 20' run and I got #6 AWG would handle 100 amps at 200'

Right now I've gotta stick with the two batteries I have as I am limited by how much weight I can pull. That's a topic for another thread though. I just have an idea to make it as simple as possible (the operation of it) so even a caveman could do it.

Can you expound on the latter part please? Wiring after the inverter after the converter?

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